Prague (not only Christmas) Gifts Ideas

Tis the season to... talk about shopping, obviously. Don't get us wrong: we love Christmas and all the good things it brings: seeing family and friends, eating all the Christmas cookies (more on that later), watching fairy tales on TV, opening a bottle of wine and simply having some quality time. However, when it comes to shopping for gifts, many things can go wrong, especially when you shop abroad, and especially when you are walking along the beaten path.

So, in an attempt to steer you in the right direction, we bring you our annual tips for some of our favorite Christmas gift ideas. Now, what we did here is we imagined what we would have loved to get if we were your family members or friends. In some rare cases, we assumed you had an unlimited budget. But mostly we just wished for something cool and reasonably priced. However, we always picked something we thought really represents where the Czech Republic stands right now and where it comes from. Notable omissions include: Russian dolls of any kind, "My dad was in Prague and all he got me was this stupid t-shirt" shirts, overpriced glass and fake garnets. We have also set some imaginary categories of family members and friends for your convenience. Enjoy!

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For kids with imagination: Fatra inflatable toys

After a long pause, Fatra, the original manufacturer, has recently resumed the production of the classic inflatable toy designs by the famed toy designer Libuse Niklova. We had so much fun with these when we were kids. No trip to a pool was complete without these inflatable animals. Oh, we can still smell that rubber. Now you can buy a piece of modern design history and bring it home to your little ones. Just like us, they are going to love it - guaranteed! If you wish to learn more about Libuse Niklova and her work, we recommend that you buy her work’s catalogue compiled by her son. Where to buy? In the Guma retro shop at Jecna 24 street or online at their website. If you wish to shop for children in a regular shop, we recommend that you visit the beautiful Ookidoo shop near the National Theatre or Space4kids, another cool shop for kids near the Hradcanska subway stop. Oh, how we wish these shop had existed when we were small! 

For small scientists and rascals: Kooh-i-Noor mechanical pencils

We have already written about these a while ago but they still remain a great gift in our eyes. And with their factory store just a few steps off the Municipal House and the Powder Tower, there is now no excuse for not buying a set of these for an elementary school student. Just a quick tip that... ehm... "adds value": just screw the mechanics out of the metal casing, and you get a spit gun as a bonus (here’s an old school class recipe: just take the casing, punch one end through the peel of the orange you ate during recess, blow into the other end and - voila - you get an invitation to the principal’s office). In addition to the mechanical pencils, the store sells lots of leads, brushes, fantastic set of colored pencils and other accessories and tools for the aspiring artist. Where to buy? The Kooh-i-noor design shop at Na prikope 24 street. 

For your hipster friend or relative: Botas 66 sneakers

From disappointment 30 years ago to hipster accessory today: when we were young, a pair of Botas shoes was a bitter wake up call from our dreams about wearing Adidas and Puma sneakers. However, with their new, retro “Botas 66” fashion line, Botas made a huge splash about five years ago, and a pair of the bright-colored sneakers is now a must-wear item for all Czech hipsters and the like. Still made mostly by hand in Skutec, Czech Republic, the Botas retain an old-school feel but add modern, colorful design, high quality materials and good craftsmanship. Where to buy? JB Sport at Dlazdena 3 street has a very small selection but boasts a great, central location. For a proper assortment, you’ll have to travel outside of the centre to Artis - Botas shop at Radlicka 11, Prague 5. If these are not your cup of tea, you can also check La Gallery Novesta selling Novesta shoes and some pieces by Leeda, or you can visit our favorite Kurator or Debut Gallery for the wonderful Cutulum shoes.

For dad or grandpa: Zufanek slivovitz

Hailing from Borsice in the Slovacko region of Moravia, just about two miles from Zuzi’s birth village, the slivovitz (plum brandy) made by the Zufanek distillery comes as close to the real thing as possible, and is the best slivovitz money can buy today. Yes, “the best stuff does not have a label”, as Mr Fric, a famous Czech chef, says to glorify Czech moonshine, but Zufanek comes very, very close. If you do not like Slivovitz, Mr Zufanek’s family also makes brandies from other fruits: pear, sour cherry, apricots, juniper, even walnuts. Where to buy? Sklizeno foodie market has a nice selection in different sizes, as does the Bartida shop and bar.

For the design lover with cash to spare: Dechem glassware

Following up on a tradition dating back to the 13th Century, Ms Tomiskova and Mr Jandourek, two young Czech designers, founded the Dechem studio in 2012 to “tell new stories in Bohemian glass". Their lamps and tabletop decorations immediately caught the attention of many design fans all over Europe. Be ready to splash some serious cash for their creations but their products are truly beautiful and forward-thinking. We would love this as a gift. Anyone? Where to buy? The Qubus design shop in the Dox Centre for Contemporary Arts, the Debut gallery, one of the great Artel shops and the Kubista shop.

For paper lovers: Modern Czech Stationery

Who does not love the smell of paper? We certainly do. When combined with clever design, we think a piece of modern stationery can be a great present. Our favorite Czech stationery designers include Papelote, which has been on the market for a few years and sells everything from envelopes to folders to diaries and notebooks and, importantly, wrapping paper, Paragraph, a young independent studio seated in the Zizkov district, and VOALA. Where to buy? Both Papelote and Paragraph have their own shops (see their websites linked in this paragraph). In addition, Paragraph stationery can be bought at Page Five, a recently opened independent publishing house with a shop that sells everything from books and magazines to stationery and posters, and in our favorite Kurator.

For your coffee snob friends: Chemex dripper + Doubleshot coffee

Do your loved ones love coffee and design? Why not combine the two? The Chemex coffeemaker, although not Czech, is a beautiful object by itself that will double as a decorative piece in any kitchen. Use it to make drip coffee from beans roasted by Doubleshot, the Prague-based coffee roasters who supply coffee to almost all the good cafés in Prague. You can buy a tasting set of three different coffees of your choice from their assortment. Where to buy?Muj salek kavy, one of the most popular cafes in Prague, is the flagship café owned by the Doubleshot roasters. In addition to delicious coffee and cakes, you can buy all the props to make great coffee at home. 

For design lovers who have everything: Brokis lamps

The installation of lamps by Brokis, based near Jihlava, Czech Republic, was one of our favorites at this years Designblok, the annual design show in Prague. Combining the creativity of young designers and the beauty of high-quality Czech glass, the lamps offer some striking designs. So good they were features in a recent Yves Saint Laurent video! Our favorites include the Shadow and Muffin lamps by designers Lucie Koldova and Dan Yeffet, the Capsula lamps by Lucie Koldova, and the Balloon lamps by Boris Klimek. Where to buy? The easiest way is to inquire for Brokis products at their website. They have stockists all around the world and are sold by several online shops. Try to google them.

For just about any woman (or man): Modern Czech jewelry

What woman does not like shiny things? The Czech Republic has recently witnessed the rise of many talented designers, ranging from the more traditional (e.g. Belda) to the more daring. These might not be to everyone's taste but are surely going to get everyone's attention. Our favorites include Zorya with their Virus collection, Janja Prokic and her Le Grand Jeu collection, Antipearle pearl-based jewelry with an edgy look, and Blueberries 3D-printer based designs. Where to buy? Zorya can be bought in their Letna-based studio (by appointment only), in the Dox by Qubus store and the Simple Concept Store. Janja Prokic can be had in the Debut Gallery, Antipearle sells its products in its showroom at Janackovo nabrezi from 10am to 6pm from 18 to 23 December, and Bluberries pieces can be bought online at their website, in the Leeda shop and at Modernista. 

For wine and glass lovers: A Czech red and glassware by Czech designers

Czech wines have been getting very good recently and although they are mostly known for whites, you can find some good reds here, too (although they will never have so much body as an Australian cabernet). And is there a better way to enjoy a good red than from a designer carafe and glasses? No, we didn't think so. Czech designers have always designed really nice glassware for wine and food alike. The glasswares by the Olgoj Chorchoj studio, Rony Plesl, Martin Zampach or the LLEV studio are among our favorites. Use them to devour a glass of some of our favorite Czech reds: the 2009 Shisar by Mr Zapletal, the 2009 Neronet by the Prague-based winery Salabka, or the 2009 Trkmanska by Stapleton Springer. Where to buy? The carafe at Hard-De-Core, and the wines at the Vinograf wine bar. Both can be found at the Senovazne namesti square in the centre of Prague.  

For your friend who looooves cooking at home: Lugi kitchen accessories

Lugi, the Czech manufacturer of modern design furniture such as our "when we grow up, we'll buy this" table, has found an ingenious way of putting that excess material resulting from their manufacturing process to good use: create a line of kitchen accessories and tableware. Their wooden trays, cutting boards and salt and pepper grinders are really cool, beautifully made and sport nice minimalist designs. Where to buy? Pavilon. the furniture and design complex at the Vinohradska trance market.

For your chocolate-loving aunt: Passion chocolates and pralines

Made in the Kbely district of Prague, these designer chocolates and pralines are the joint creation of Melinda and Geert, a couple that relocated to Prague after the Hungarian-born Melinda quit her job, met Geert in Belgium and decided to make artisan chocolates as part of her creative urge. The pralines and chocolates are beautifully decorated and creative and are made from high-quality ingredients. Where to buy? Online at their website. For perhaps a more accessible alternative, have a look at Jordi's chocolates at the Sklizeno foodie market at Vodickova 33 street. 

Well, this is just a short selection of things we really like. The list could be much longer of course, but for more ideas, we'll send you to our favorite shops instead. We are pretty sure you'll find your perfect gift there.

Harddecore - A wonderful gallery/shop with a great selection of Czech design with many things made specifically for this place.

Kurator - One of our favorite shops in Prague owned by lovely and friendly couple, Martina and Jan. They will do their best to help you find a beautiful gift (and probably feed you, too). 

La Gallery Novesta - This beautiful concept store carries pieces by many great Czech fashion (and other) designers such as Zuzana Kubickova, Jakub Polanka, Katerina Geislerova, etc. Your better half will be very happy to see you've picked something for her there.

Futurista - This unique space has a great selection of the best of Czech design, art books, jewelry and architecture.

Ingredients - We bet this is the nicest smelling shop in Prague. You can spend hours in this wonderful perfume store, but anything you pick from perfumes, candles to cosmetics will definitely bring a smile on the face on the receiving end.

Panska Pasaz - Imagine 10 great shops under one roof, all carrying great gifts for men. From great watches, ties and shoes to quality whiskey and cigars. As a bonus, you'll find a popup store there until Friday, Dec 13, featuring the talented Leo Macenauer and beautiful bags by Playbag.

Well, this concludes our annual list of Christmas presents from Prague tips. If you are missing something or are looking for something specific, let us know!

And remember: sometimes it may be better just to spend it on yourself:

Čestr's potato milk mash

Now, if you have joined us on the food and culture tour, you will confirm that one of the most popular dishes served include the potato mash at the Cestr restaurant. Yes, the simple mash blows everyone away. Why? Well, because it is not that simple. The “milk mash”, as they call it at Cestr, is a bit more difficult to prepare that your ordinary mash, but the result is worth it. You should not expect a Joel Robouchon-style butter fest but a delicious, fluffy mash with silky smooth texture. You know it’s good when you go to a specialty steak house and the potato mash still gets a special mention every single time, right?

Now the good people at Cestr, or, more precisely, Mr Lukas Drab, Cestr's sous-chef, have published the recipe for their famous mash in the monthly magazine issued by the Ambiente group of restaurants (which include Cestr). Just in time for the Thanksgiving dinner preparations. What a coincidence! Now if you want to be the star of the Thanksgiving family dinner, or if you just want to prepare a really good potato mash, read on. We are reprinting the recipe with the original photos, which we kindly given to us by the management. The key to the recipe is following the instruction, and not counting the calories!

Cestr's recipe is based on the following ingredients:

• 1.8 kg (4 pounds) potatoes
• 1 liter (34 oz) milk. The potatoes will cook in milk, so you should have enough milk to cover the potatoes in the pot. We are talking about whole (full-fat) milk, preferably organic.
• 100 g (7 tablespoons) butter
• a bit of salt. The exact amounts of butter and salt may vary and you should adjust them to your taste.

It all starts with the selection of the right potatoes. Here’s the rule of thumb: they should be good. Go figure, right? They should be firm and not too starchy, and should be free of sprouts. They do tend to change the selection of the exact variety at Cestr, so you don’t have to worry about that very much. Our guests did not get to taste the mash during the summer. The explanation is simple: new potatoes are not suitable for the mash, since their higher water content will break the texture. That is why they wait for about two months in the summer and then start making the mash again only when the potatoes are ready. 

1. First of all, peel the potatoes and soak them in water to get rid of the starch. At Cestr, they soak the potatoes over night, but half an hour will do in household conditions. 

2. Cut the potatoes to smaller cubes and cook them in water for about 5 to 10 minutes, continuously scraping off any starch foam that is created on the surface. 

3. Get rid of the water and simmer the potatoes in hot milk. The milk should be hot, not cold. (Cold milk will stop the cooking process and that’s bad for the mash). The milk should simmer, not boil. The more fatty the milk, the easier it burns at the bottom of the pan. Cook the potatoes until very soft for 25 minutes or so.

4. Drain the potatoes, keeping the excess milk of later use.

5. Put the potatoes in a mixer bowl, add butter, and start mixing with a whisk. First whisk without any milk and start adding the milk later to achieve a silky texture of the milk. The amount of milk needed may dramatically vary depending on the variety of the potato used.

Finally, a word about salt: Salt is added when the potatoes simmer in milk, and then again when the mash is being whisked.

We hope you will enjoy the recipe!!! If you do follow it (and we hope you will), please comment on the results and do post pictures of your mash! Happy Thanksgiving! 

How are the streets in Prague paved?

They say people can watch three things indefinitely: the fire... the sea.... and someone else working. However, the work of the people who pave the cobblestoned streets of Prague is painful to watch. The sheer intensity of the labour is perhaps too close for comfort. We think that the biggest mistake you can make when doing this is thinking about how big an area you have to pave, one stone by one. It's like building the biggest puzzle game ever, again and again, every working day, nine to five.

When we talk with our guests during the tour, one thing comes up repeatedly: the cobblestones in Prague. They are a mixed blessing, really. For a foreign visitor, they are beautiful and romantic, although they do lose points when it comes to comfort. You can leave those high heels at home because you will hardly ever use them in Prague. Local women are an exception - they are simply used to them and seem to have the ability to levitate above the stones in even the highest heels. Czechs also generally like them for their clear benefits and advantages.

First, there are the looks: the cobblestones look better than the cold asphalt. More importantly, they look cleaner than they really are - the uneven surface is forgiving to every cigarette butt and candy wrapper people may leave behind. Corporations also like them when they can order logos to be made out of different-coloured stones in front of their offices. Finally, the stones are recyclable - when a pipe bursts underneath them, you can easily take them out and then put them back again. That is why paving the streets with cobblestones has become a popular pre-election gimmick: many local politicians set out to repave the main streets in their district just before the election to show that they truly care.

Which takes us to the disadvantages of cobblestones. Firstly, their "recyclability"  became a huge problem when Prague hosted the World Bank/IMF summit in 2000, as the protesters from all over the World took to the streets of Prague and used the stones as ammunition against the riot police. Many streets in the centre were stripped of all the stones and became simple dirt roads. (Ouch!) Also, the comfort - or the lack of it - is an issue, especially when the big stones are used to pave the roads. Yes, never buy a used car from Prague because the stones will ruin the entire suspension. Finally, the cobbled streets are demanding in terms of the required labour and time. There is virtually no automation involved, and each stone has to be hammered in manually. Many of our guests were simply fascinated by the work involved in paving the streets when they saw it in action.

The streets around our home were recently re-paved, so Jan grasped this opportunity to interview the workers about their job. The video proves two things: (1) Jan exhibits a striking failure to multi-task for a former conference interpreter and babbles like an idiot when he shoots videos, and (2) people paving the streets of Prague are extremely reluctant to give interview and are clearly surprised when anyone wants to talk to them. We post the video anyway, in all its naked glory. Just enjoy the view of other people working. And please turn on the English subtitles (CC as closed captioning). Enjoy!

Best Prague cafés (according to us)

[If you are reading this, you may have been pointed to this page by Google. Great! But in reality, this is an older post about breakfasts in Prague. If you want to see our updated, 2015 version of the same post, please click here. Thank you for reading, and enjoy your coffee!]

With the Prague Coffee Festival near, it's about time we update the list of our favorite cafes in Prague. Sadly, winter has come early this year (as we write this, the temperature is below 10C/50F, and it's early October), which really means the coffee season has begun. What may be great news for cafe owners is a piece of bad news for ice-cream vendors (although Czech rarely do believe in seasonality when it comes to having ice-cream). The following list is a list of cafes we love and recommend, in no particular order of preference:

EMA Espresso Bar Opened in June, the newest entry on the Prague coffee scene has quickly become very popular. The modern interiors referencing Czech functionalist architecture are full of light and create a nice atmosphere; the staff is nice and knowledgeable and uses their La Marzocco Strada EUR 20,000 machine to prepare cup after cup of delicious coffee. You can always get espresso or drip coffee either from the coffee roasters of their current preference - JB, based in Bavaria, or their "coffee of the week", which includes anything from Square Mile, Bonanza Coffee Roasters, Doubleshot, Union etc. In addition to coffee, EMA offers a few easy and quick fixes: sandwiches, focaccias, two salads, and a small selection of cakes. They do plan to put more focus on food in the future with the addition of a chef, but you should not expect a restaurant. EMA will always remain an espresso bar at heart. One think should be noted: as a true espresso bar, EMA does not offer wifi to its guests. And for those who don't like coffee, EMA offers a small selection of great teas by TeaJay and home-made lemonades.

Muj salek kavy

A long-established Karlin district's staple, Muj salek kavy is loved equally by locals, expats and travelers, and can get quite easily crowded, especially when they close down their outside seating for the winter. The cafe is owned by Doubleshot, arguably the best known independent Czech coffee roasters, and the owners make great use of their own roasts, using their custom-made Spirit Duette coffee machine. Breakfast is served from Monday to Friday until 11am and the whole day over the weekend, and a light lunch or dinner can be had afterwards, including a daily soup. The food is good, but let's face it: the coffee is the star in this establishment. We hardly ever get a cup of coffee without some of their delicious cakes. Our favorites include their cheese cake, carrot cake and banana-and-coffee cake. They are on the sweet side, but we like them. The staff speaks fluent English (one of their baristas is a Melbourne native) and is very welcoming.

Monolok

Nestled in the heart of the Vinohrady district's residential area, Monolok is our favorite place to go when we want to enjoy a cup of great coffee in a quiet, relaxing atmosphere. One of their baristas has currently finished third in the World Cup Tasting Championship (no, we're not making this up), and the waiters are generally very friendly and attentive. Coffee and some simple dishes can also be served in their tiny but nice courtyard. The interior design of this place is lovely, simple and airy

Café Lounge

This definitely IS your daddy's café. While other establishments may unapologetically form a part of the recent hipster café trend, this café and restaurant clearly evoke times long past, the times of Belle Epoque and the First Republic. The café may feel a bit cramped on first sight, but it is very cosy and fills up very quickly. They serve espresso-based drinks, vacuum pots, drips and cascara drinks. This is the only café on the list that features a proper kitchen and doubles as a full-fledged restaurant, and the food is not bad. About the desserts: the Czech baked sweets on the table are nice, but definitely skip the desserts in the glass vitrine. If you want some elaborate cakes, visit the nearby Cafe Savoy instead (but skip the coffee there). In addition to coffee, Café Lounge serves local wines with a focus on organic wines made in Central Europe. The café also rents out picnic baskets in the summer.

I Need Coffee

Owned by the former co-owner of the Leeda fashion label, I Need Coffee sells nice coffee; cakes and macaroons made by Chez Lucie, a famous Czech food blogger (and our friend); some sandwiches; kremrole (Czech merengue-filled rolls); Czech ciders; croissants with jams from Hradec Kralove etc. They also serve breakfasts, mostly of the meatless kind. All served in beautifully designed cups and tableware. The one-room café is beautifully designed in a minimalist fashion. In addition to coffee (and this is the only café on the list that does not offer drips) and food, you can buy some cool books about design, designer towels and glassware, and sometimes a themed T-shirt. I Need Coffee is a great place to stop on your way to or from the Vysehrad Castle.

TriCafé

The owner of this small café near the Charles Bridge is a photographer (and some of his equipment is on display in the café) who used to work at Café Lounge. TriCafé serves good coffee, nice home-made cakes and nice savory treats. To call the design of this café minimalist would be an understatement: the café features just the bare essentials: the bar, a few tables and chairs. That's it. However, the atmosphere is very relaxed and nice (even though the Charles Bridge is just few steps away), and you can see they all put all their heart into their little cafe.

Kavárna Pražírna

If you need a dose of caffeine and you're near the I.P. Pavlova subway stop at the border of the New Town and the Vinohrady district, the Prazirna is the place to go. As the Czech name of the place suggests, the café roasts its own beans. The place is located in a cellar and is popular among locals, especially in the evening. If you need wifi, sit in the first room, while the second room will provide more privacy. While we are not blown away by their selection of small nibbles (clearly there's space for improvement when it comes to food), they do understand their coffee and they always welcome you with a smile.

AlCafetero

One of the first gourmet coffee establishments in Prague, this mom-and-pop operation has been on the coffee map for years. The owner reigns supreme in this café (e.g. refusing to serve sugar with the coffee), and a visit to this café is more like a visit to the owner's living room: it's small, and it's personal. That said, the place has a loyal following, and offers some nice small dishes, cakes and pastries made by the owner's wife (who, incidentally, comes from the same small town in Eastern Slovakia as Jan's mom).

Mezi zrnky

Mezi zrnky in the Vinohrady district is a diminutive café replacing the now extinct Cup Up café. Their barista Jara is a coffee geek full of ideas: recently, the café organized a coffee pairing with food. This café can serve also as a bistro: the establishment offers a daily soup and some other small dishes. It is small, with the seating capacity of no more than ten, but it's quite cosy. We love their tables decorated with newspaper shreds.

Mushroom picking in Prague

We always try to persuade our guests to step out beyond the ordinary and do something they may not even have planned to do while in Prague. Not that it's mandatory. But it could be definitely fun, and this time of the year offers a great opportunity to do something that probably was not on your list, and is food related: picking mushrooms in Prague. As we never forget to highlight during our tours, Czechs (along with the Germans and perhaps Slovaks) must be the world champions of mushroom picking. This is definitely a cultural phenomenon not shared by all the European cultures: the Spanish cringe at the idea of pickled mushrooms, a delicacy here in the Czech Republic, and mushroom picking is illegal in the Netherlands (and we're not talking about "those" mushrooms).

Mushroom picking turns into a craze especially during the fall season, with popular daily newspapers dedicating multipage inserts to the best mushrooms, the best locations where to find them, and the best recipes how to cook them. The only year when people did not pick mushrooms was 1986, the year of the Chernobyl disaster: the Communist government downplaying the effects of the blast and withholding information from the people, the myth was that the mushrooms were full of radioactivity from the acid rains that allegedly followed the tragedy.

Nevertheless, people do love picking mushrooms. Not really an adrenaline-packed activity, we would liken mushroom picking to a blend of fishing and golfing: you get to walk through beautiful surroundings while waiting for the perfect "catch". The best time to go is early in the morning, especially after a night rain. And preferably on a working day to avoid the crowds of other mushroom pickers. If you have a morning to spare and do something really local and different, we think mushroom picking is the activity for you.

"How do I know which mushrooms to pick? My travel insurance does not cover poisoning by mushrooms!" We hear you ask. Don't worry: if you are not sure which mushrooms to pick, you can visit the "Mushroom Advice Centre" in the centre of Prague, run by the Czech Mycological Society, a publicly-funded organization, and their experts will sort the basket for you on the spot. Just remember: never store the mushrooms in a plastic bag, and opt for ventilated storage instead.

Now, there are several places where the locals go to pick mushrooms, but in the interest of simplicity and convenience, we will just mention one, which has already been tested by several of our guests with good results: the Kunraticky les forest. Getting there is easy: just hop on the subway and get to the Roztyly subway stop in the Haje direction on the red "C" line. Walk out and you'll see a dense forest on your right. Getting there takes less than 30 minutes from the centre. The forest is well organized and includes well-marked, color-coded routes that will lead you back to the Roztyly or Chodov subway stops. Other points of interest in the forest include a small zoo of local forest animals and - if you venture far enough into the Kunratice part of the town that feels more like a village - a nice branch of the Lokal pubs (called U Zavadilu) that offers great Czech dishes and beer (and is located near a bus stop that will take you back to the subway stop).

Don't have a full morning to spare? No problem. You can still get a taste of how the Czech cuisine uses mushrooms (which we think should be the cornerstone of vegetarian, or any, Czech cooking) in some of our favorite restaurants in Prague, although, sadly, not many restaurants have made full use of what we think should be the king of autumn seasonal menus here. Čestr offers a lovely mushroom sauce with their array of steaks and a mushroom salad, although it is not available every day (and they also make a wonderful truffle sauce to go with steaks and a roast chicken with truffle stuffing if you think truffles belong to the mushroom family). If you want to taste a great Kulajda, a slightly sour creamy potato soup with dill mushrooms, head over to Essensia in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, although be prepared to spend some serious money there. For a cheaper, but still delicious, version, visit Café Imperial. Finally, Mlynec seems to be making great use of mushrooms in their revamped Czech-inspired tasting menu (although we have not been there yet after they reopened the restaurant).

Charles Bridge - Early Morning Edition

One of the things we always recommend to our guests is that they visit the Charles Bridge, one of the main sights in Prague, early in the morning. That is the only way to see it "naked", without the crowds of large tourist groups that visit the bridge later in the day. It is also the only time of the day the Charles Bridge is truly used by the locals for its original purpose - as a bridge. Later in the day, the locals tend to avoid the Charles Bridge and the crowds on it, opting instead for the two bridges on each side. Now, when we give this recommendations, many guests generally like the idea of an empty Charles Bridge, but really dislike the idea of waking up early. You don't do that when you're on vacation, right?

That is why we visited the Charles Bridge early in the morning ourselves to show you what you should expect if you indeed decide to go, or if you are still jet-lagged and don't know what to do when you wake up early in the morning and can't fall asleep. We took these pictures in the spring at about 7am, just as we were heading out to the Main Train Station to pick up Jan's cousin and her boyfriend arriving in Prague on the overnight train from Slovakia, due to arrive at 7.30.

Obviously, you can see that the bridge is pretty empty and offers some very nice views when the day starts. You will see a few people on the bridge: council workers cleaning up the bridge, the occasional jogger, a few photographers taking advantage of the opportunity, and a few locals going to work. We absolutely love the atmosphere of the place just as the city is waking up. We'd recommend that you walk to the Old Town and just get lost in the narrow streets between the Charles Bridge and the Old Town Square. Trust us. You may make memories of a lifetime. And when you get hungry, start the rest of the day in one of the places we recommend.

Enjoy the day!

Breakfast in Prague

(Please note that this is an older post on breakfast in Prague. Click here for the most up-to-date post on the best breakfast in Prague.) 

For some, it is a waste of time, and a croissant and coffee or a bit of yoghurt will do. For others, breakfast is a vital start that sets the tone for the rest of the day. We must admit we belong to the second category. For us, a late breakfast is definitely one of our favorite pastimes. There's nothing better than getting out of the bed with the promise of some scrambled eggs with bacon, fluffy pancakes, delicious coffee - okay, now we're salivating. What makes a breakfast so great is you can stop for a moment, think about all the things you did yesterday, and plan the day ahead of you. All this thinking deserves a nice meal. Whether you prefer savory or sweet, we give you a list of our favorite breakfast spots in Prague:

Café Savoy

This is one of our favorite places for breakfast. The art deco interior is nice but not overwhelming. The high ceilings are airy and there's lots of light inside, which is something we like. This is a great place for people watching: the crowd is a mix of elegantly dressed locals and visitors from abroad. When you walk downstairs to the bathrooms, you’ll pass the wine cellar and if you go further, you can have a look at the bakery where they prepare their delicious pastries. Book a table in advance (especially for weekend mornings) and have the French toast, one of the best croissants in the city with wonderful apricot marmalade, baked brioche bread with ham and Gruyere cheese and a poached egg, or scrambled eggs - all delicious! Their sausages are also nice. They also have a nice but pricey selection of teas, but we are not huge fans of their coffee, despite them having beans from local roasters - so we hope they improve on their coffee-brewing skills.

Café Lounge

If coffee is an important part of your breakfast, then Café Lounge, just a few steps off Café Savoy, might hit your fancy. As for breakfast, you can choose from several items that include sausages, scrambled eggs, ham-and-eggs, Bircher muesli, or you can build your own “Hunger Wall” (which actually runs through the patio of the café), i.e. you can choose create your own breakfast set. We also like their sandwiches, especially the chicken-and-egg sandwich sandwich, or their focaccia with grilled vegetables and goat cheese or chorizo. If you prefer a sweet breakfast, we recommend you opt for the Czech sweets - sweet buns or kolachees. Definitely avoid the pastries in the cooler - they may look nice but they fall behind in terms of taste. Fresh juices and a wide selection of tees are also available for the non-coffee drinkers. When the weather permits, definitely choose a table in their lovely garden.

Home Kitchen

This small and intimate place really feels like home: you sit at two communal tables, and the staff is friendly and helpful. The selection for breakfast is small but tasty and of high quality. Apart from eggs, you can also get pancakes and good bread with several toppings, or choose from a daily selection of three soups served with bread and flavored olive oil. Home Kitchen is great for really early breakfasts, opening as early as 7:30. However, they are closed on Sundays. The only downside is that they don't serve tap water, but we still like it a lot.

Můj šálek kávy

Another of our favorites in Prague, Muj salek kavy is a lovely and a very popular place located in the Karlín district, which has witnessed dramatic renewal since the 2002 floods, and is almost always packed. We both have favorites on their breakfast menu: while Zuzi likes their home-made muesli with Greek yoghurt and fruits, Jan always orders their omelette with ham, cheese, mushrooms and tomatoes. Their coffee is delicious, and their beans, roasted in house by the owner of the cafe, the Doubleshot roasters, are served both in espresso-based drinks and in drips. You can even order a tasting set of three different drip coffees. We love their home-made lemonades, and we never leave without tasting one of their delicious cakes. Oh, and the pistachio ice-cream is finger-licking-good.

Pasta Caffé

Although the crowds - an eclectic mix of shady Czech businessmen and B-list celebrities - may not be to our taste at times, their breakfast sets are a terrific value and consist of  good-quality components. We love the boiled eggs with Parmeggiano cheese or fried eggs with spinach and onions, for instance. Later in the day, they focus on lighter, pasta-based dishes and salads. They also offer a nice selection of Czech and Italian pastries if you cannot imagine your breakfast without a sweet ending. They have another branch in the Vodickova street near the Wenceslas Square with a virtually identical menu.

Café Imperial

Being a hotel restaurant, Café Imperial offers a breakfast buffet and breakfast sets in addition to the a la carte choices. Their staff is very polite and professional, at times to the point of being a little bit stuffy. Their menu is very extensive and you will find it hard to find something missing. We liked our breakfasts (poached eggs and the English breakfast set) the last time we visited, although we must admit we would skip the croissant and jam the next time. The interior, with its high ceilings and the walls covered in tiles, is striking, but may make the impression that you are eating in a spa. :-)

Monolok

This nice café off the beaten path is located in the Vinohrady district, and its location is excellent if you want to explore the area further (which is something that we definitely recommend). They serve delicious coffee and offer a small selection of breakfast dishes: nice sausages, egg-based dishes, muesli, pancakes, fruits, and a few breakfast sets. If the weather is nice, definitely get a table in their lovely patio in the courtyard. Their baristas are really good and the staff is very friendly in general. The only problem we have with this place is, ironically, the owners - they don't seem to be interested in how their guests are doing or if they feel welcome, and just boss their employees around in front of the guests.

La Bottega di Finestra

This shop/bistro near the Charles Bridge is a bit upscale, just like the sister restaurant next door, but their eggs Benedict are worth a visit alone. The few breakfast dishes they serve are all of very good quality, and they make full use of their own in-house bakery. The shop/bistro combo plays very well to the customer's advantage: all the ingredients are fresh and tasty.

EMA Espresso Bar

OK, this is not a place for "proper breakfast" with eggs and bacon, but if you want great coffee in a relaxed and nice atmosphere, and you'll do just fine with a small sandwich or croissant, we cannot recommend EMA enough. As an added bonus, you can meet us there - we are there so often we are thinking about having our mail forwarded there ;-) No, really, the baristas are excellent, and the coffee usually fantastic. In addition to their more regular coffees, they always offer something special as their "coffee of the week", so you'll never get bored. In terms of food, they offer fresh sandwiches, one or two salads, and something sweet. They also serve fresh juices and home-made lemonades.