Delicious Beer From Microbreweries

Are you planning your trip to Prague? If you are, then you will already know that we consider Czech regional beers our crown jewels. But do you know what beer tastes the best? Well, that’s tough one.

During our tours we often hear that Czech beer is the best in the world… but when we ask the participants what Czech beer they liked the most, we rarely get a straightforward answer. Frequently, it’s either Gambrinus or Pilsner Urquell, Budějovický Budvar and Staropramen, ubiquitous brands of giant breweries that have been dominating the Czech beer market. That’s not to say these aren’t great beers – at least Pilsner and Budvar – but too much of a good thing can get a bit boring.

Luckily, a new generation of Prague pubs is beginning to draw beers from a plethora of strange brews, going well beyond the traditional big-name lagers. These pubs are gaining popularity among locals: the beers they are selling usually have distinctive flavors, and freshness is always guaranteed. This trend is well illustrated by the recent list of the 10 best places to have a beer in Prague (alright, we are also tired of the generic Top 10 articles) published by Hospodářské noviny, one of the largest newspapers in the Czech republic – four of the top five spots are occupied by pubs selling beers from microbreweries. We encourage you to sample some of these harder-to-find beers and pubs that are worth the search.

Where should you be heading for a pint then?

Zlý Časy is the perfect place to try some fantastic Czech beer - with 24 beers on tap and upbeat but still traditional Czech pub atmosphere. Due to the crowds of happy beer drinkers, it may be harder to get service at the bar.

Zubatý pes – with 15 beers on tap, 5 or 6 of which are foreign beers and the rest being some of the best Czech beers, you are sure to find a few that will suit your liking.

První pivní tramvaj - if you are looking for something a little more adventurous, try this odd little pub. Take the number 11 tram to the last stop at Spořilov. The tram will stop just a few steps from the pub's door. At first sight it might look like a dive, and maybe at second and third sight as well. But it has a unique atmosphere (seats from an old tram bench, tram handrails at the toilets, curious cartoon graffiti) and they serve some wonderful beers. Btw, have you heard of the fourth tap?

Bulovka Pivovar – a famous Czech pub that is almost always packed. Bustling and noisy, like a traditional Czech pub should be, U Bulovky has a very unique atmosphere which is very hard to find nowadays.  The beer is excellent – always fresh-tasting and rich, each beer has its own unique taste.

Vietnamese Food in Prague

Although we focus primarily on Czech cuisine, we should definitely point out a new phenomenon on the Prague dining scene - Vietnamese food. For historical reasons, there is a big Vietnamese minority in the Czech Republic. There is no better proof of that fact than a visit to "Little Hanoi", officially called the SAPA market - a large Vietnamese "town in a town" full of Vietnamese shops and bistros on the outskirts of Prague. Because of these and other establishments, you can taste some delicious authentic Vietnamese dishes... right in the centre of Europe. If you want to find out more about the Vietnamese community and food in Prague, join us on a Prague tasting walk! The Czechs have embraced the concept, and lower-end Vietnamese bistros are becoming more and more popular. Although, these places are not exactly fine dining, be assured that the food is finger-licking good!

Prague Castle by Night

When people tell us that they want to see the Prague Castle and the Charles Bridge, we always recommend visiting these two marvelous sights either early in the morning or later in the evening to beat the crowds. Alternatively, you can visit the Castle during the day to enter the St. Vitus Cathedral and have a stroll in the Castle gardens (which is highly recommended), and then come back in the evening to truly enjoy the Castle's exteriors.

To illustrate what we mean, we took a short walk to the Castle yesterday (our kitchen is located within walking distance of the Castle) and took these photos for you. These shots were snapped at about 9:00 p.m. There was hardly anyone there, except for the attendants of a BMW party (yes, you can rent the halls of the Prague Castle for corporate events).

Designblok 2011

You may have already guessed by now that we love food. But there is another passion that Zuzi and I share - modern design. Whenever we go to a museum abroad, we never forget to check out the design shop. And when we are eating out, food always tastes better to us from a nice plate than from a mediocre one.

Well, if you're like us and you are visiting Prague next week, this post is for you.

From Tuesday, 4 October through Sunday, 9 October, Prague will be hosting the 13th edition of the Designblok annual design exhibition that focuses on Czech design and fashion. This is THE event on the design-lover's calendar in Prague, and definitely the event to attend if you're in Prague next week.

Designblok (and Czech design in general) has witnessed some dramatic development in the past decade or so. I had the honor of being the interpreter for the opening night of the 3rd Designblok - back then, it was a small affair held in a forsaken industrial building with no promotion and just a few young, Czech designers showing their newest creations to a handful of design aficionados. Fast forward ten years, and you can see crowds of people standing in lines to get in one of the "superstudios", lured in by the ubiquitous posters around Prague, just to see the newest products from global names such as Kartell, Nespresso, MaxMara, Ikea, Nike, Nokia, Escada and many others. But if you look carefully, you will have the opportunity to see, and buy, many interesting products by Czech designers - products that can make a great present for your loved ones or yourself.

When and where to go?

The exhibit Designblok exhibition starts on Tuesday, 4 October, and ends on Sunday, 9 October. The main events will be held in two "superstudios". This year, one superstudio is located in the Sporkovsky Palace at Hybernska 5 street, just a few steps from the Powder Tower and the Municipal House. This superstudio will focus on fashion, jewelry and accessories. To see the other superstudio (Superstudio Futurama), you'll have to visit the Karlin district. This superstudio will focus on furniture, lighting, and home accessories. Other events will be held in the shops and studios of the exhibitors that have been admitted to join the Designblok. For a comprehensive list of the exhibitors, click here.

What to look for?

We definitely recommend that you look for some Czech jewelry, crystal and porcelain products, the traditional Czech craftsmanship strongholds. As regards jewelry, definitely check out the Belda Factory, Deers.cz (which makes very popular brooches in the shape of deers), and the jewelry of Zdenek Vacek and Trash made (jewelry made of used materials)

If you love products made of glass, or tableware, don't miss exhibitions by Moser, Rony Plesl, Atelier Pelcl (if you attend our cooking courses, you will be eating from Mr Pelcl's lovely plates), and Pirsc Porcelain

For fashion junkies among you, be sure to visit the exhibitions or shops of Czech fashion designers such as Klara Nademlynska, Timoure et Group, the Sister Conspiracy, Tatiana Kovarikova, Hard"de"core, Denisa Nova and others.

For more information on Designblok and its events, exhibitors, and locations, please visit http://www.designblok.cz/2011/en/.

Prague Cafes: Going Local vs Playing Tourist

As far as truly ‘local’ activities go, relaxing with a book or a laptop and slowly sipping coffee in a café surely ranks near the top. Yet very few travelers allow themselves the luxury of spending time doing next to nothing in a café. There are simply too many other things to do and see. Therefore, kicking back in local cafés becomes something of a guilty pleasure for many. As much as I love to see people checking one sight after another in Prague, I have to confess that it also makes me a bit sad because relaxing in a café provides some unique insights into the local culture and should be something you do in between sights.

Luckily, there is a strong coffeehouse culture in Prague, and the city’s historic cafés have long been included among the must-sees. Almost every guidebook features top traditional coffeehouses, and if you google ‘Prague's Best Cafés’, you will get a lot of advice on the ‘best’ cafés.

However, this also means that cafés that once oozed with local atmosphere now hardly have anything to offer beyond  their history and their polished wooden floors, big picture windows, and unique interiors. And because these places are crammed with guidebook-carrying tourists, the waiter tends not to care if you are coming back. Ordering a cup of coffee in these establishments can be a huge mistake and the locals have moved on, and so did the atmosphere that made the cafés so appealing in the first place.

The Cafe Slavia, the atmospheric The Cafe Louvre and the only Cubist-style coffeehouse in the world, Grand Cafe Orient, are three examples of cafés destroyed by tourism. Established in 1863, Cafe Slavia became a meeting place for artists and intellectuals – it’s regular patrons once included Franz Kafka, Rainer Maria Rilke, Jaroslav Seifert and the composers Smetana and Antonin Dvorak. Today, it is packed with tourists hunting for pictures of beautiful Art Deco architecture and the astonishing views of Prague Castle.

Cafe Louvre is another café of this kind. The Parisian-style café with a billiard hall is part of the First Republic's heritage, and its famous patrons included Albert Einstein, Karel Čapek and Franz Kafka. However, the combination of crowds of tourists, coffee of poor quality and disinterested waiters makes me pass this establishment by without any regret.

The Grant Café Orient is another remnant of the past. However, for a rare chance to see cubist architecture up close, I recommend that you enter the fabulous geometric balustrade and climb the teardrop-shaped stairwell to the Grand Café just to see the really beautiful interior with many interesting details and a narrow terrace. Do not order anything, just look.

Two traditional cafés that we still like (although we would not order coffee there) are Café Imperial and Café Savoy. The former is an Art Deco gem with ornate mosaic and tile-covered interior. Ask for some Czech classics such as Braised Veal Cheeks or Marjoram Braised Lamb Shank and observe the steady stream of local businessmen and ladies, all wearing smart suits, having their lunch. The latter is a charming little spot to for a rich breakfast before a stroll around the Petrin Hill.

So, what are the atmospheric local coffee shops I want you to discover and spend some downtime in? My first-choice café is Al Cafetero. This small, non-smoking, family run café is true coffee lover’s paradise. The owner will be your most accommodating host, offering samples, souvenirs and a friendly chat. Try the delicious, awesome-tasting coffee made from a vacuum pot, but be prepared to be offered neither milk nor sugar with your coffee.

Můj šálek kávy ("That's my cup of tea") - This place is what a coffee shop should be: great coffee, good atmosphere, nice staff, convenient hours and it a really ‘local’ vibe. 

The baristas turn out some of the city's best espressos and drip coffee. You can stop by for breakfast in the morning, for a tasty lunch in the afternoon, or just sit down with your book/newspaper/laptop after dinner and catch up on your reading.

Café Lounge - This Malá Strana spot combines elegant interior (formerly a residential apartment) with nice food, friendly service and good-quality coffee. You can easily spend hours here reading, talking or just looking around and sipping some gorgeous Moravian wines. Besides, it is a non-smoking café with a lovely garden.

Dům kávy is a perfect place to purchase premium coffee beans, coffee makers, grinders, espresso machines, etc. Although more a shop than a café, Dům kávy serves one of the best cappuccinos in town.

What I like about these five cafés is that despite their appealing atmosphere, locals still far outnumber tourists, the coffee is great, the staff is friendly and reliable, and the cafés are still what they should be – places to linger over coffee rather than take photos. And I hope that doesn’t change.

24 Hours: See the best of the city in just one day

In just one day, you'll get a mere glimpse of Prague, but beware: it will surely whet your appetite for more, and you may have to extend your stay in the end!

Historic building around every corner, spires in almost every view – sightseeing in central Prague can feel overwhelming at first. But Prague is a wonderful city to stroll around (if you don't mind the cobblestones). Take time to wander down its narrow streets, savour every mouthful of delicious food and every sip of great beer, but - most importantly - resist the temptation to follow the crowds of tourists and sightseers. Our advice to anyone who finds him or herself with 24 hours to spare in the Czech capital is to stop, breathe, appreciate, indulge and maybe try some of these ideas.

Start the day with the Prague Castle, the most noticeable and impressive of Prague's landmarks. Come early in the morning and enjoy the place's history without hurry. Take a leisurely wander around Hradčany (If you're facing the castle gates, go to the left, follow the gardens and castle walls and then pass the square until you get to some smaller streets. Wander around, be sure to visit Nový Svět, don't miss the tiny pink house at the end of that street) and look up for impressive architecture without fear of bumping into other tourists. Secreted in a valley that used to be the northern moat of the Prague Castle is a pedestrian tunnel linking deer gardens on either side of the Powder Bridge. This simple 2002 creation by architect Josef Pleskot of AP Atelier is off the beaten track and all the better for it. Halfway through the tunnel is a niche with the remains of the preserved foundations of the original Renaissance bridge on display. Move up the moat's slope to the plateau, where you find Eva Jiřičná's first building in Prague, the Orangery in the Royal Garden.

Walk down the Petřín Park, former vineyards, a beautiful collection of lawns, orchards and pavilions, and treat yourself to breakfast at Café Savoy. Sit at a window table overlooking the leafy square outside and order one of several all-day breakfasts (we recommend Savoy Breakfast with a juicy portion of Prague ham served with horseradish and grain mustard. Tip: Book a table in advance and save place for dessert).

After the breakfast, take the 12 tram for a trip past the sites of Malá Strana and on towards the Holešovice district and the DOX centre for contemporary art, which has the potential to kick-start the gentrification of the northern part of Holešovice. David Černý's famous Entropa sculpture was shown here in early 2010, with further edgy shows soon following in its footsteps. Unless you had a coffee at the centre's roomy terrace, visit arguably the best coffee house in Prague, Muj šálek kávy (which translates as "My cup of coffee" in English) and enjoy every sip of a perfectly prepared cappuccino.

With your caffeine addiction well fed, climb up the steep Vítkov Hill and enjoy an exquisite view of Prague. Even though the austere National Memorial looks like it was build by the Soviets, it was actually completed before the Communist era. Now run by the Czech National Museum, it boasts impressive interiors, and hosts a permanent exhibition on 20th century Czechoslovak history - a great way to learn about Czechoslovak history and the life in Czechoslovakia in the past century.

Now take the subway and after just ten minutes (take the C line to the “Vyšehrad” station), you'll find the best kept secret in Prague – Vyšehrad. Situated on a rocky outcrop just south of the centre, Vyšehrad (which means “castle on the heights”) offers a stunning view looking back over the city and Prague’s ‘main’ castle. The Vyšehrad Park is a perfect spot for a picnic or a romantic walk on the winding path that offer sweeping views. The area also houses the splendid Vyšehrad cemetery where many famous figures of Czech and European culture and science were laid to rest: look for a map directory of the famous names at the entrance.

Now it's time for a traditional Czech dinner! Depending on your budget, head over to either La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise, Čestr or Lokál. Eating at the former is a memorable experience, and with such impressive food and wine pairings, the real surprise is that the restaurant is yet to receive a Michelin star (we blame the biased Michelin commissioners). Tip: have a piece of smoked beef tongue with chickpea puree and pickled shallots and bear in mind that the LDBB has no a la carte menu and that each of the seven courses of the Bohemian tasting menu is preceded by its own amuse-bouche, so reserve at least three hours for a meal.

We love Cestr – this Czech Steak House reminds us so much of our childhood. Inside, the restaurant feels like a butcher's shop: clean, bright and metallic; a place you know uses only top-quality meat. Beyond the atmosphere, Cestr truly triumphs on the plate – real Czech recipes, composed of Czech ingredients and prepared by Czech chefs. Pick up your piece of meat from the menu printed on paper, folded around a cardboard "map" of cuts from a cow. Tip: splendid beef tartar, superb steaks, rich gravy, homemade fries, Valhrona chocolate cake with homemade peanut ice cream, tank beer and poppy seed buns in vanilla crème.

Lokál brings the traditional beer hall concept bang up to date. The interior features wooden wall panels decorated by graffitis and a glass bar counter housing stainless-steel barrels and cooling pipes. Do not expect fine dining, but rather “like mum used to make” food, lots of locals, low prices and great beer. Enjoy either fast and high-quality meals such as pickled cheese, headcheese or sausage made by the Dolejsi family of butchers from Davle, or bigger, regular meals like Beef Tenderloin with Cranberries; Pork, Dumplings, and Cabbage; or Roast Duck with Red Cabbage. Tip: Waiters will keep bringing you extra beer if you finish your first glass, so make sure you say "no" before it's too late.

In the evening, take a twilight cruise of the Charles Bridge. The crowds along this biggest tourist attraction begin to thin out as the sun sets. The shadows fall and the statues become silhouetted by the remaining light. It’s a magical place to be at this time of day. Make sure that you spend some time on Kampa Island, which is just off of Charles Bridge. Walk through the park and enjoy the view of the bridge and across the river.

And finally, there's no better place to end the night than in one of Prague's bars. Go to the Hemingway Bar and try Absinthe with cold water dripped over a sugar cube into the drink (that makes it significantly more palatable) or head to a small, very pleasant Vinograf Wine Bar and discover wonderful Czech wines.

Have a wonderful stay whatever you are up to and remember: stop, breathe, appreciate and indulge.

What are your tips for getting the most out of the city?