PRAGUE FOOD BLOG

The best Prague food tips and Prague restaurant guide by Taste of Prague Food Tours. For more insight in Prague food, check out our Prague food tours and our Prague Foodie Map!

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Taste Prague 11/28/22 Taste Prague 11/28/22

Prague neighbourhood guide: Bubenec

Bubeneč is a very quiet, green, residential neighbourhood known for embassies occupying large villas, and Stromovka, the biggest park in Prague. This is the district where people settle to start families - it is full of parks, playgrounds and kindergartens, with very few bars or any night life to talk of. It is now na affluent neighbourhood that ticks a lot of boxes - it is near the city centre, but not in it, and while it offers the leaf cover of some fancy districts like Hanspaulka, it does not feel as far away and has everything you’d need.

Now, before we start, we use the term „Bubeneč“ very liberally and do not stick to its precise, administrative borders. So no angry letters please - the are we cover here will inevitably, at times, spill over into Dejvice.

Getting in and out

You will gravitate towards the Hradčanská and Dejvická subway and tram stops. They are both on the green line of the subway that connects you to the historical centre. But you can use the trams, too: the 18 gets you there from Old Town, 20 from Lesser Town, and 8 and 26 from New Town (via the cool district of Letná). Weather permitting, you can also walk to Bubeneč via the beautiful Letná park, or through the Royal Garden if you’re at the Prague Castle.

Staying there

Residential districts of Prague don’t always offer hotels targeting tourism, but bizarrely, Bubeneč does have at least three that come to mind. The Hotel International is an absolute icon, and a beacon of 1950s Communist Social Realism. This is luxury living the way Communists imagined it… and it is… interesting in the best sense of the word. The Diplomat hotel is just off the border of Bubeneč in Dejvice, and it’s a comfortable business hotel with everything you’d ever need. You’ll be at the airport in 15 min, and you’re 15 min from the city centre by subway or tram that stop right in front of the hotel. And finally, Hotel Schwaiger is a small boutique hotel right at the edge of the Stromovka park and right across the street from the ironing Na Slamníku pub. This is a great option if you like your accommodation in a calmer area.

Coffee

Where Bubeneč punches way above its weight is specialty coffee: we literally don’t have to travel outside of the district to get plenty caffeinated… and stay that way all week.

It is no secret that we have our daily morning coffee at Kafemat. Not only does everybody know our name there, but we strongly believe it is one of the top coffee shops in the whole of Prague, with seasoned professionals making delicious cups of coffee even during the morning rush hour. This is a neighbourhood spot that every neighbourhood deserves.

But Kafemat is a small espresso bar with basically no food except some re-sold baked stuff, so if you want to eat with your coffee, or sit with a bigger group, your best bet in the district is Místo, one of coffee shops run b Doubleshot, the OG of specialty coffee roasters in Prague. This place is very popular and for good reason: it serves great coffee and solid food, wine and beer, and can keep you happy from the morning till early evening. Plus they sell their own roasted beans, which are a Great souvenir from Prague.

Within a stone’s throw from Místo you’ll find La forme, which combines specialty coffee with great baking - Laforme may serve our favorite croissants in town, ideally eaten on the small bench or a few tables on the leafy street outside. (There’s virtually no place to sit inside.) Mazelab coffee a few blocks further away, which belongs to the coffee empire of Jackie Tran, serves great coffee in a former garage-turned-designer coffee shop. Think Apple Store simplicity and great coffee to create a zen-like experience. And Café Borzoi a bit further north is a small espresso bar that serves coffee by The Naughty Dog, another local roaster. Finally, Kiosek Kafe is a small stand at the Dejvická bus stop that may be technically in Dejvice, but it is worth mentioning here.

Sweet stuff

Bubeneč is also quite nice if you’re not on a diet. We guess that with all these parks and playgrounds, you need to refuel with carbs.

We have already mentioned La forme, one of the best bakeries in town if you like croissants - plain or filled - or pain au chocolat and the like. Just three blocks away is location of another Prague staple, Oh Deer Bakery, thank sells wonderful cronuts, pastries and now even bread. Speaking of best in town, a special mention must go to Kristyjan Chocolatiers. Founded by a Kristyna and Jan (the former worked in the food industry previously and the latter was a concierge at the Four Seasons), they have successfully turned their passion for pralines and chocolate into what we feel is the best chocolatiers in town. Their pralines and chocolates are delicious and the wrapping is luxurious - the best gift from Prague?

Bubeneč is also great if you crave ice-cream, with both Angelato and Crème de la Crème, the two staples from the city, represented. And you know what? Our little JJ likes the strawberry at Ovocný Světozor, and who are we to argue? Finally, Elvíra is a surprisingly good pastry shop in the lower part of Bubeneč, just across the street from Café Borzoi (they make a great combo together) - their pavlova, for instance, is delicious. And just across the corner is Bakery 60, a Korean bakery serving treats unlike any other in town.

Pubs

There are beers to be drunk in Bubeneč with at least three pubs that can easily claim to be iconic. First, the U Veverky pub is the Czech pub everybody in the neighbourhood likes, with all the staples of a Czech pub - good Pilsner, comfort food, Czech beer hygge in the form of wooden cladding in small rooms, and slightly annoyed staff. What more do you want? Then there’s Nádražka, the absolutely iconic pub at the Praha-Dejvice railway station. To a newbie, this is a puzzling, confusing experience: the beer is incredibly cheap, there is absolutely no table service ever, and the whole thing is a bizarre shrine of Mr Frýba, a late TV announcer from the 70s. But hey, if you’ve ever a teenager with an attitude in Prague, the odds are you loved this place. Finally, the Na Slamníku pub is a classic destination pub with a small hall for concerts and events, and a beautiful tiled oven in the main room. This is a Czech pub the way they looked and operated a hundred years ago. Great outdoor seating in the summer, too.

Fancy craft beers? Not a problem. Automat Matuška may have opened less than a month ago, but it’s already becoming a destination for those who love craft beers and good BBQ. This is a large space at the right spot that serves the entire portfolio what probably is the most popular Czech craft brewery today. Pivovar Bubeneč just a few blocks down Bubenečská is a quieter, neighbourly corner pub that has cute outdoor seating for the summer. And Krkonošská hospůdka is a joy to have a beer at - the place is a simple, friendly craft beer pub with a small but well curated list of beers. And those brave enough will try Basecamp, a craft beer shop, just across the street - there are some beers to be had there, too.

Restaurants

For the longest time, Bubeneč was a desert when it came to good restaurants, but recently things have been changing for the better.

Bizarrely, Bubeneč has one Bib Gourmand-awared restaurant (there’s only a handful of these in the Michelin guide for Prague), Dejvická 34. It is a classic Italian bistro with very skilled chefs that serve lunch specials and fine dining dinners, paired with nice Italian wines. This is a place that will appeal to you if you prefer comfort over adventure. Another popular Italian restaurant is Little Italy/Da Emanuel, formerly run by a famous Italian TV chef, Emanuele Ridi. It is a cosy trattoria that attracts some of the rich and famous here, and has a really nice outdoor seating in the summer. If you still crave more Italian, you can have something nice - or buy something nice - at the Italians Wine Food bistro, or just get a slice or a whole pie of pizza at the no-nonsense Fresh Point across the street.

Besides the pubs mentioned above, there’s not many Czech restaurants in the area, and the slightly cosmopolitan atmosphere (remember, embassies!) lends itself to foreign cuisine. So you can have a nice dumpling lunch at the Ukraininan Váleček bistro, a cool brunch or a bowl of pho or bibimbap at the An bistro that combines modern Vietnamese fast food with specialty coffee and craft beers, have something French at A Table in Mařákova, something Lebanese at U Cedru, Greek fast food at Fresh Greek or a longer Greek meal at Kavala, or a Japanese dinner or sushi at either Katsura in the Diplomat hotel, or Mash Hana just behind the Hradčanská subway stop. The Puškinovo náměstí is a twofer, with Na břehu Rhony offering French wines and food, and Na Urale pub serving fresh Pilsners and Czech pub fare to refuel as you watch your kids go nuts at the playground just across the road.

Shopping

So besides the Kristyjan pralines, if you want to get a souvenir from Bubeneč, it’s easy: you have to go the In August Company, founded by our friends Karolína and Teo, to get beautiful ceramics, a tote bag, tea cups or stationery famous among the locals. This is a gift that will fill you with happy memories for years to come. Pokojovky sells beautiful home plants for your home (in case you’re moving in)… and that’s about it we’re afraid.

What to do

Obviously, the parks genuinely call for a nice walk: the Stromovka is the biggest park in Prague with wonderful lakes, paths, jogging routes and playgrounds. You can use it to cross the river north and continue to Císařský ostrov island with equestrian centres, or take the pedestrian bridge further to reach Troja with the ZOO, the botanical garden and vineyards.

The newly opened Museum of Literature is a great destination to finish your walk through the villas of Bubeneč (check out especially the Slavíčkova street for that) or start your walk through lower Bubeneč towards the International Hotel. If you plan a walk from there to the National Technical Library in Dejvice, you’re in for a quiet, interesting stroll.

Finally, there’s the playgrounds. Prague does playgrounds well, and Bubeneč is at the forefront. Virtually every square will have something, from the shielded sand box and playground at Puškinovo náměstí, to the leafy playground at Lotyšská, or the trampoline at Náměstí Interbrigády, the bronze horses and splashy pools at Šabachův park, or the secluded park at the end of Václavkova. Follow that with ice-cream (see above), and you’re in for some quality family time.

Taste Prague 1/20/22 Taste Prague 1/20/22

Explore Prague's Wenceslas Square and New Town

When we started our Prague Foodie Tours at the top of the Wenceslas Square in Prague’s New Town, showing its historical importance was easy: we’d just whip out our iPad and show photos of people celebrating Czechoslovakia’s independence in 1918, the Nazi troops parading on the square in 1938, the Soviet tanks in 1968, and the Velvet Revolution that ended Communism in late 1989.

Yes, Wenceslas Square, one of Prague’s natural crossroads and a place when the locals meet to venture into the historical centre, where they work and shop (but rarely live) is a place where history was repeatedly made. It has been losing its splendour in the past decades as it lost some high-profile retail shops to Old Town’s Pařížská street and as it became the nearest Prague had to a red light district at night. Think Champs-Élysées, but in Prague.

So the locals may be a bit grumpy about the current state of the square, and look forward to plans of its revitalisation, which - after years of empty promises - seem to be finally picking up speed.

The Wenceslas Square is not just a photo opportunity to capture the monumental National Museum towering at the top of the avenue (year, the „square“ is not really a square), but a great place to spend a day, or a half of it, breathe in the history, have a meal and a drink, and wonder through the webs of walkthroughs that connect the buildings around it. So if you’ve done the Old Town and the Castle District during your Prague trip, the Wenceslas Square is a great place to explore, especially on a rainy day in Prague.

So the locals may be a bit grumpy about the current state of the square, and look forward to plans of its revitalisation, which - after years of empty promises - seem to be finally picking up speed.

What to see in Prague’s New Town and Wenceslas Square?

Drake may have started at the bottom. We’re going to start at the top… with the National Museum. Reopened recently after a long and comprehensive reconstruction, the National Museum is a thing of beauty. No wonder they shot Casino Royale on the central staircase of the building. The museum itself is a natural history museum (think „Hall of Minerals“, which is actually quite stunning in a beautifully old-school way, and dinosaurs) that is hours of fun. Just ask our 4yo JJ.

Make sure you take the underground tunnel with pretty cool video art to the museum’s new building next door. The former Federal Assembly building is a striking Brutalist building from the late 1960s, and you’ll know it was a parliament - just the amount of marble used is pretty admirable. Make sure you visit the interior courtyard by the Myšárium play area. The top floor now (January 2022) hosts a cool exhibition about Czechoslovakia’s 20th Century history.

Walking down, you will notice two things: first, a small memorial to Jan Palach, who set himself on fire on the square in 1969 in protest against the Soviet occupation, and then the statue of St Wenceslas which gave the name to the square. Yes, he’s the guy from the old English Christmas carol, and no, that Christmas carol does not exist in Czech culture. But you’re welcome. Many locals have, in their lifetime, set a meeting point „behind the tail“ of the horse, so you may see people waiting for others there around the full hour.

The Wenceslas Square is a mixture of all different styles of architecture from different periods of time (the square was founded, along with the entire New Town, as the horse market in the mid 1300s) but there are a few notable ones. Starting from the top, Hotel Jalta is a classic example of Socialist Realism (think 1950s Communist luxury). Hotel Evropa, the neighbouring Hotel Meran and Peterkův dům are classic Art Deco structures from the Belle Epoque. The Lucerna palace is a modernist structure with hints of cubism. The Debenhams department store is brutalist, while the Baťa shoe store and the Lindt palace right next door are functionalist/constructivist. So feel free just walking down the square and enjoy the juxtaposition of different styles, forms and sizes.

The one thing you must explore are the walkthroughs prevalent around the square. These are commonly used by the locals and rarely explored by the tourists, but they’re great little quirky passages and arcades that will protect you from the rain or heat depending on the weather. Here’s some of our favourites:

Walking from the top, the walkthrough next to the KFC leads to the Studio Dva theatre. Note that the ceiling at the end of the arcade in front of the ticket box sports a really cool face watch, so that you know if you’re on time for a show. The most famous arcade is the Lucerna Palace. Mostly know by the „upside down horse“, a statue by Czech artist David Černý that echoes the statue of St Wenceslas on the square, but with the horse upside down, the arcade hosts a few shops and, most notably, the oldest cinema in Prague (built in 1909 and still in use), the „Big Hall“ under the arcade that was home to concerts by Ray Charles or Louis Armstrong and today hosts high school proms, or Lucerna Music Bar, home of the popular 80s and 90s nights and concerts by many cool Czech and foreign performers. If open, take the paternoster elevator to the roof of the building with some great views and vibes.

The Lucerna extends along Vodičkova street into Dům U Nováků, built in 1904 to mimic big department stores in Western Europe (think Galleries Lafayette in Paris). Today, it is home to Divadlo ABC theatre and a variety of shops. Crossing the Vodičkova street, you’ll enter the Světozor arcade with an art cinema that includes Terry Posters, a cool shop that sells old Czech and foreign movie posters. (Czech posters are different from the ones you know, so check them out.) At the end of the arcade, you can turn right into the Alfa arcade, one of our favourites: the floor and the ceiling are quite stunning. Too bad the Palác u Stýblů building isn’t used. We strongly believe that if Soho House ever builds a hotel in Prague, it should be here.

If you turn left at the end of the Světozor arcade, you’ll enter the Franciscan garden, a little green spot hidden in the middle of the busy streets around it. The locals come here to sit on a bench and enjoy the view, eat ice-cream or lunch, or take the kids to the playground in the corner. (Want a super hidden indoor playground? Get to the top floor of Hotel Juliš on Wenceslas Square for a cute play area with some stunning views of the city.) If you walk through the garden, turn right into the Church of Our Lady of the Snows. The interior is classic Prague as it mixes two completely different styles: Baroque altar and decorations inside a Gothic church. Oh Prague, you’re so beautiful.

On the other side of the square, walk towards the Henry Tower (and now the Andaz hotel) and pop into the Main Post Office in the first block of Jindřišská street on the right. You’ll be happy you did. Completely hidden from view unless you know about it, the post office must be one of the nicest in Europe. The last arcade for you to explore is the Koruna arcade, probably the most monumental one, at the very bottom of the square. You’re done with sights, let’s go eat and drink.

Where to eat and drink in Prague’s New Town and around Wenceslas Square

Let’s get the drinks out of the way first. There are two or three great cocktail bars in the area: OMY (Oh My Yalta) in the Jalta hotel is a showcase for the country’s most famous and respected distiller, Mr Žufánek. You will find his entire portfolio there, including some very limited items. Swim in Štěpánská street serves great vegetarian food but also artisanal cocktails in a pretty cool constructivist building. But our heart belongs to Parlour in the otherwise uninspired Krakovská street. It’s difficult to find with very little in the way of signage, but that’s not a bug - that’s part of the design. With a huge following among local cocktail aficionados, this little bar without a cocktail menu (you have to tell the bartender what you fancy, and they’ll fix you a drink) and with vintage glasses is an oasis for the thinking man and woman. If you’re introverted but love cocktails, you’ll be here a lot. Fancy a drunk crawl? Go elsewhere. Finally, the Be Bop Bar in the Alcron hotel is a classic bar with surprisingly delicious and creative drinks.

If you want beer, head to Lokál U Jirátů with fresh Pilsners and a pretty cool bar that opens and slides out into the street in the summer. U Pinkasů is an iconic Pilsner pub bordering on a tourist trap. And if you want wine, you’ll probably like Špejle that serves a lot of them with a side of tapas-style food.

Now, where do you eat in Prague’s New Town? Let’s go.

For the finest food in the area, head over to the Alcron hotel (the first independently-owned boutique hotel in the world, btw) to La Rotonde. Chef Lukáš Hlaváček may be young but he cooked in London’s iconic The Ledbury and in Napa Valley’s three-Michelin-star Meadowood. The restaurant is mostly empty, as the locals usually shy away from hotel restaurants, but that may change over time, as the young chef’s reputation grows. A bit down the fancy-meter is Čestr in the Federal Assembly building. A frequent stop on our Prague Foodie Tour, the modern restaurant slow-cooks local heritage breed of cow and adds delicious local sauces. The logo and plates tell the whole story: Czech tradition, updated. Great before or after a performance in the State Opera nearby.

Yalta Craft Bistro in the Jalta hotel puts a modern spin on some Czech classics, like the dill sauce with beef, and the results are delicious. Add local craft beers and outdoor seating on the terrace, and you must be a happy camper. Kantýna in Politických vězňů street is a place for meat lovers: the former bank is part steak house, part butcher shop and part deli with meat cutters and a ticket where the cutters record your order. Add fresh beer and you have Czech nirvana. Not a meat eater? Visit Swim just behind the Alcron hotel for vegetarian fare by one of the best vegetarian kitchens in town, Estrella.

Want something quicker? Have a bowl of ramen at Kitchen the Address, probably the oldest ramen shop in town. For a classic quick bite, have a chlebíček, the Czech open-faced sandwich, in Ovocný Světozor in the Světozor arcade, or at Lahůdky Zlaý kříž at the beginning of Jungmannova. On a nice day, get a few in a box and eat them al fresco in the Franciscan garden nearby.

Wenceslas Square is a great place to have pastries. In a country where continuity is hard to come by due to 40+ years of Communism, you’ll be pleased to know that Myšák in Vodičkova street opened in 1911 and has been great ever since. Come here for great classic Czech pastries, their iconic ice-cream sundae, and specialty coffee. Erhart Café in Dům U Nováků across the street adds a cool 1930s Constructivist aesthetic. And Ovocný Světozor serves ice-cream and whole cakes if you need them. Also, Grom may not entirely be the small artisanal ice-cream from Italy it purports to be (it’s a big company) but the ice-cream is legit.

And if you need coffee, the vicinity of Wenceslas Square won’t let you down. Most of local coffee is brewed around the Franciscan garden - Kavárna truhlárna is located in one of its corners, and Headshot is in another. Goodlok is just a few steps away on Jungmannovo námšstí and in addition to coffee serves cold-pressed juices and small dishes with a focus on fermentation and health. Kavárna Růžová just two blocks away is a cute espresso bar without any proper seats, but well-prepared coffee by Coffee Source, local roasters. Spell Coffee is tucked away in a courtyard and is a combination coffee shop and beauty parlour. Myšák may be a pastry shop, but their coffee is solid, and Cafe Susu has the best bingsu in town.

Finally, let’s talk shopping, because the Wenceslas Square has some retail therapy options.

First, Wenceslas Square is home to not one, but three bookshores. Neo Luxor is the biggest one - it spans four floors and has probably everything you may ever need. Academia is more about non-fiction, and Knihy Dobrovský may have a kitschy front, but a vibe of a small bookstore behind it. One of the coolest shops in the area is Foto Škoda, a true palace of photography that spams three floors and provides comprehensive printing services, too. For used and vintage cameras, check out the camera store in Dům u Nováků.

Two great shops for kids: Hugo chodí bos is a shop that sells Czech toys of our childhoods - we’d buy everything here… for ourselves, while Hračkotéka adds high quality and artisanal toys from Czechia and abroad, modern and old-school. Freshlabels is a fashion store with a focus on street wear and backpacks, while Queens is a great sneaker store. Finally, Les houbeles sells all things mushrooming, which is a Czech obsession, and Fransýr sells great French cheeses.

Taste Prague 12/28/21 Taste Prague 12/28/21

Covid Situation and Restrictions in the Czech Republic, F/W 2021 edition

So here we go again. When we posted our last post about the covid situation and restrictions in late June, we may have honestly thought it would be the last one: after a slower rollout, vaccines were widely available to anyone who wanted them, our infection numbers were low, and the future was bright.

Well, some five months and one general election later, we entered a pretty brutal fifth wave in November 2021: the number of infections were breaking all previous records, and our hospitals started to fill up with mostly unvaccinated patients.

Right now it seems the peak of this wave is behind us, and the numbers of infections, hospitalisations and Covid-related deaths have been steadily falling, and some of the restrictions have been lifted.

So let’s look at what the situation and restrictions are, how did we get here, and what may be our way forward.

CAN YOU VISIT THE CZECH REPUBLIC AS A TOURIST?

In short: yes. If you’re fully vaccinated by any of the EMA-approved vaccines. (Sorry, Sputnik and Sinopharm!) Additional testing on entry may apply. You also have to fill in a short tracking form.

And if you decide to go, and have any questions - or need to eat well during your stay - please let us know. We will be happy to help.

Should you visit the Czech Republic as a tourist?

In short: yes… right now. Our numbers are falling from a pretty massive spike a month ago. The state of emergency ended a few days ago, and restrictions are fairly limited. We’ll see what omicron will do when it fully gets here, which it eventually will.

CURRENT SITUATION AND RESTRICTIONS - AS OF 28 DEC 2021

We’re now behind the peak of a pretty massive 4th (or is it 5th?) wave, and our daily infections are falling from previously record-breaking highs. The real number of infections may actually be a bit higher, but - in a controversial move - the government has stopped paying for covid tests in order to push people to get vaccinated (who still have access to free tests), so we don’t really know. But all in all, we’ve seen a steady decline of cases over the past few weeks.

Right now, indoor dining is only available to fully vaccinated patrons, and there are capacity restrictions (only four patrons may set at a single table unless they share the same household). Gatherings have been limited. But museums, schools, retail shops and cultural facilities are all still open with just a few restrictions.

Current covid situation and restrictions in the Czech Republic

Only fully vaccinated patrons may be seated down for in-door dining. The certificates will be checked by the restaurant/coffee shop etc.
Face masks must be worn in all interior premises. You may take the mask off at your table in a restaurant.
Tables may not be shared by more than 4 people, unless they share one household. Gatherings are limited to 50 attendants and social distancing must be practiced.

WHAT ARE CZECHIA’S LATEST COVID NUMBERS? REPORT AS OF DECEMBER 28.

New daily cases: 9,089
7-Day Incidence per 100,000: 338 (Germany: 194, Austria: 162, US: 564, UK: 1,177)
All current cases: 120,756
In hospital with Covid: 3,460 (with just under 10,000 at the height of the third wave)
Total casualties to this day: 35,975
Total infections to this day: 2,454,291
(Total Czechia’s population to give context to the numbers: about 10.7 million)
Executive summary: We are now behind the peak of a pretty brutal fifth wave. Nearly everything is open with only a few limitations.

COVID VACCINATIONS IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC

Over 62% of the population is fully vaccinated.
Nearly 65% of the population is partially vaccinated.
Nearly 21% of the population has had a booster shot so far.
Pfizer is the most common vaccine (over 80% of all shots administered), followed by Moderna, Astra/Zeneca and Johnson & Johnson. The authorities have stopped administering the Astra/Zeneca vaccine and are slowly shying away from Johnson & Johnson.
Executive summary: After a slow rollout and a speedy spring and early summer, the vaccination rate has completely stalled in late summer and early fall - our infections were low, and there was a lot of anti-vaccination sentiment due to mostly BS on Facebook and other social media. The government took steps to disadvantage the unvaccinated in their social lives (they may not participate in indoor dining and have to pay for their covid tests, for instance), and that has lead to a new peak in interest in covid vaccinations. That said, we are still lagging slightly behind the EU average.

Taste Prague 12/7/21 Taste Prague 12/7/21

Breaking News: Our Christmas Vouchers are out!

So your partner has everything he or she may want, and you have nothing to buy them for Christmas? Wrong! They don’t have our amazing Christmas vouchers yet, do they?

Our vouchers are a gift that keeps on giving - first, it’s a beautiful letter with a personalised thank you note that glorifies both the giftee and the giver. Second, it gives your loved one(s) access to a tour or an experience they will absolutely friggin’ love some time later on.

Also, giving a Taste of Prague experience makes you 40% more attractive, as conclusively proven in a recent survey conducted by the prestigious University of Our Moms.

So how can you become Mr and/or Ms Perfect this Christmas and turn your Christmas experience to eleven? Read on.

So your partner has everything he or she may want, and you have nothing to buy them for Christmas? Wrong! They don’t have our amazing Christmas vouchers yet, do they?

Also, giving a Taste of Prague experience makes you 40% more attractive, as conclusively proven in a recent survey conducted by the prestigious University of Our Moms.

So how can you become Mr and/or Ms Perfect this Christmas and turn your Christmas experience to eleven? Here’s your options:

Prague Foodie Map

Our beautiful printed guide to all things Prague is the most affordable way to get your hands on some Taste of Prague magic. And if you live in Prague, we will be happy to write in a personal thank you note that the giftee will treasure for the rest of their life. (At least that’s how we imagine it.)

But joking aside, our Prague Foodie Map contains a lot of the know how and wisdom we share on our tours, but neatly wrapped in the format of a pocket-sized guide book. All our tips on Prague dining, drinking, shopping, living and much more…

Moravian Wine Tour

You know what’s better than spending four hours with us? Spending two days with us. Enter the Moravian Wine Tour - a great weekend in the company of our favorite Moravian winemakers making some of our favorite Moravian wine. The idea is simple: Jan gets a van and drives 8 lucky guests around his favorite Moravian spots and winemakers so that you get a feel for the area and its soul and spirit. We check in to Brno’s best hotel and have a great dinner in the city. (A taste of Brno’s amazing cocktail bar scene is entirely optional.) The next day, we chill and do a short Taste of Brno by Taste of Prague, and hit the D1 highway back to Prague before everybody else does.

Jan’s favorite tour in our portfolio is what memories are made of. And guess what? We have a voucher for that, too!

Prague tours

The bread and butter of our operation, and our occupation most of the days is our food tours in Prague. We have two: the Prague Foodie Tour is designed more for expats or visiting travellers who want to get a taste of what’s Prague all about. The Prague Dinner and Cocktail Tour is more for the locals or repeat travellers and uncovers the true hidden secret of Prague - its amazing cocktail scene.

You can get a voucher and decide on what precise tour you want to join and when later - they cost the same, so we’re flexible here. In any case, we guarantee loads of fun!

Our summer house in Bousov

Last but not least, you can rent our summer house in Bousov near Čáslav and Kutná Hora. The little house is located at what feels like the end of the world (it’s the end of the village, actually) by a small stream at the foot of a tiny hill. So you can get away from the civilisation while enjoying all its perks - the summer house has all the amenities and luxuries of a swanky city home (minibar!!!). A great place to read or write a book and forget about everything.

Does it come as a voucher? You bet.

Where to buy?

Easy. You go to our shop and start there. And if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

Happy holidays y’all!

Taste Prague 12/2/21 Taste Prague 12/2/21

Taste of Prague’s Local Christmas Buying Guide 2021

So Christmas is around the corner and let’s be honest here: if you want to buy online but haven’t got around to it, and Christmas is three/two/one week(s) away from now, don’t fool yourself: that gift ain’t never arriving on time for Christmas. (Thank you, broken global delivery chains and Covid!)

So it’s a good idea to shop local. And that’s where we step in: we have recently recorded a podcast about Czech-made gift ideas, but it’s in Czech only, and if you don’t listen to our podcast (why not? We mean, honestly…), we figure we will also write a blog post about it. These also serve are great souvenirs from Prague, of course, regardless of season. So enough chit chat, here we go.

Zuzi’s gift idea no 1: flower subscriptions

Confession time: I love me some flowers, and if our house ends up looking like a botanical garden, then be it. But you know what is the key to having great flowers at home? Consistency - you gotta buy them all the time. And that’s when a flower subscription comes in handy, because the Lord knows Jan ain’t buying flowers except when it’s my birthday or except when he forgot it was my birthday. So self-reliance is key here. Where do you get a flower subscription, I hear you ask?

You can start with the good people at Plevel. Kytky od potoka is a great option, too, and Loukykvět will sell you both cut flowers and flowers that you can continue growing in your pot. Finally, Pokojovky is another local favorite seating just a few blocks away from us over at Hradčanská.

Jan’s gift idea no 1: Czech turntable and LP records

You may not know this, but Czechia is a bit of a super power when it comes to all things vinyl, and a good chunk of LP records made today are actually made here. LP records are a great tactile gift: the once made today are robust, well made and with loads of additional perks, so I’d rank them under „affordable luxury“, and the old ones are just little pieces of history. Where can you buy them? Here’s a good start.

Czechs also make great turntables: Pro-Ject turntables may be Austrian-owned now, but they are made - as they have been for decades - in Litovel here in the Czech Republic, and based on a tried-and-tested design by the Communist government-owned Tesla company. They have a big range of turntables from cheap to expensive, and they tend to win many awards. Even Wirecutter/NYT recommend them in their Christmas Buying Guide.

And if your other car is a yacht, you can go for 440 audio turntables. Costs a fortune and a liver, but they are amazing. I think.

Zuzi’s gift idea no 2: An experience AND something tangible

You know I love getting intangible gifts: trips, concert tickets, vouchers of all kinds for something I can look forward to. But even better than that, you can add something tangible to that voucher or gift, something you can enjoy right there and then. If you’re buying concert tickets, add a CD of the performer. If you’re buying a trip, add a cool printed guide through the destination. And if you’re buying a gallery membership, buy a piece of art. And here’s my favorite artists to buy from this Christmas.

We do have a painting by Antonie Stanová and absolutely love it. I also love the work by Martin Lukáč, Lu JIndrák Skřivánková has some amazing stuff (like her painting at Kro Coffee), Bára Prášilová and Mária Švarbová are great photographers, and David Krňanský is another favorite. Also, check out Young Real Art for pieces by promising art students. And if you’re on a budget, why not a reprint of an old poster by Czechoslovakian Ink? Love the one with Gothaj salami.

Painting my Lucie Jindrák Skřivánková at Kro Coffee.

Jan’s gift idea no 2: Diary by Brašnářství Tlustý

You know, every year I try to get organised and start a proper diary/notebook, and I do put entries and appointments in it… for about the first two weeks of the year, and then I put it somewhere only to discover it again in August, blank except the first two weeks of January.

Still, the beautiful leather diary by Brašnářství Tlustý might get me to fill in entries for at least the full January (one can always hope). These come in different colours of Italian leather, which can be monogrammed, and BT offers different types of calendars and notepads for the inside, all made with high-quality Munken paper. And I am pretty sure they are compatible with Midori Traveler’s Notebook papers. Good stuff!

And if we’re talking stationery, make sure you also check out Papelote and Voala stationery shops in the Letná district and the wonderful Kartotéka shop in Žižkov.

Zuzi’s gift idea no 3: prints by vyvolej.to

We give prints by vyvolej.to to each other nearly every year, and it’s always one of the highlights. Vyvolej.to is a web service where you upload your photos and they will create some beautiful prints. But it’s not just about cool Polaroid-style print-outs of your photos - you can actually get, for instance, photo magnets for your fridge, photo books, calendars, or a whole big poster with photos of your choice: we’re always getting one with pictures of our JJ and our travels to see how the last year went buy and how much the little one actually grew. This is a great gift for your loved one to remind them what a great time you had together.

Jan’s gift idea no 3: Alcohol!!!

Heck yeah. Alcohol rules, and it rules twice as much during a coronavirus lockdown. And I think most (Czech) guys would appreciate a bottle of something nice. So we’re going to talk about wine, about alcohol, and what to serve it from.

You may know we run pretty awesome Moravian Wine Tours, so it’s hard not to be impartial towards wine from winemakers we love and visit in the course of these tours. So here’s a few very specific tips:

Gala Chardonnay Brut sparkling - love sparklings by Gala: this one lies on the yeast for 3 years and has a beautiful, bready aroma and taste. Also, Mr Gala’s Pinot Noir / Merlot blend will open eyes to the fact that Moravia can produce a nice, warming red. Great stuff.

Skale 2016 by Pavel Springer - the Springers are famous for their reds, and this Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot blend is just amazing and well worth the price that may seem a bit higher compared to other Czech reds. Also, their 2018 Merlot Family Reserve is fantastic, and their Blaufrankisch (Frankovka) reds are incredibly well balanced.

Pinot Noir Novosady by Mr Kočařík - I love me some pinots, and Mr Kočařík’s must be my absolute favorite. Mr Kočařík is a natural (low-intervention) winemaker, but these are not the funky, cloudy wines served in Danish hipster bistros. This is just a beautifully made pinot. Whenever we take a sip on the tour, what follows is a long, dreamy silence. It’s that good. Also, Mr Kočařík’s Tramin has more rosewater notes than an Ottolenghi recipe. Yum!

Pálava straw wine by Sonberk - confession time: I really enjoy dessert wines with my foie gras or dessert. And when it’s Pálava, a local grape, made as straw wine, even better! Sonberk is a beautiful winery with a great view of the Pálava hills, and a sip of this sweet wine always reminds me of the wonderful time sitting at the terrace and enjoying the view, as if time had stopped.

Riesling by Plenér winery - Dominika Černohorská is one of our top fave winemakers in Moravia: she’s a no-nonsense, no BS winemaker that just wants to make great wine. Her riesling is made of Sonberk’s grapes, and it’s interesting to compare her interpretation of those grapes to Sonberk’s own: her riesling is clean, fresh and easy to drink. And that’s her handwriting on those bottles. A great gift.

Any frankovka (Blaufrankisch) by Dva duby - Mr Šebela’s winery is just as magical as the Dolní Kounice village it is located in. His wines are intense and contemplative, the opposite of crowd pleasers, but if they hit you right, there’s no coming back.

Moving on to the stronger stuff, Landcraft makes beautiful liquors, some of them using he philosophy of circular agriculture and zero-waste movement. Some of the creations are pretty wild, like their Kro gin using the paprika mix for Kro’s chicken paprikash.

When it comes to hruškovice, the classic pear brandy, most people would suggest the oaked version by the infamous Mr Žufánek, arguably the most popular Czech artisanal distiller, and they would be right, but I want to point your attention to the hruškovice by Rudolf Jelínek. Sure, Jelínek is famous for its Kosher slivovitz, but they did move a part of the production to Chile where they had acquired a lot of land with Williams pear trees. Instead of compromising the quality of the pears as they travel all the way from Chile to the Czech Republic, they moved a part of the distillery to Chile just to make this magnificent pear brandy. Well worth it.

And Mr Žufánek needs no further introduction to anyone who’s spent at least some time in Prague and drinks alcohol. The ubiquitous distiller has a wide portfolio of liquors, but his absinthes are where his heart is, really. And make sure you check out some of his limited edition stuff - these are investment bottles here in the Czech Republic. That’s how strong Mr Žufánek’s brand is.

Zuzi’s gift idea no 4: ceramics for coffee or tea

Getting coffee or tea at home must be some of my favourite domestic moments, and they are even better when we use beautiful pottery. And Prague can offer some beautiful pieces. At home, we use cups by bisqit ceramics and our friends In August Company, but cups by Kera atelier are beautiful, too. Also, our friend Lukáš Novák makes a beautiful V60 in Wonderland set for your home brews, and his new Epic Christmas Set of a carafe and two glasses is… well… epic.

And if you like things that smell beautiful at home, try and visit Scent Roche at Nový svět for their beautiful custom-made home scents and candles!

Jan’s gift idea no 4: vessels for alcohol!!!

So you have that delicious juice, the alcohol you crave, but what do you drink that alcohol from? Easy. Bohemia is not the land of cut crystal for nothing.

I have three tips for beautiful whiskey tumblers. Starting at the top, Moser’s classic whiskey tumblers are a thing of beauty with strong heritage… and a price tag to boot. Buy these if money’s not an issue. For something still very classy but more affordable, get the Ruckl Love glasses or something from their more modern lines. That’s what we get: these glasses are beautiful and modern and a joy to drink from. And if you’re on a budget, the Tethys tumblers from Kvetna 1794 are a steal for something made manually.

Zuzi’s gift idea no 5: jewellery

We think Czech jewellers are fantastic and a piece by any of the jewellers mentioned below will make anyone happy. And as a souvenir from Prague, jewellery ravels very well: it’s small and light but twill bring a lot of joy and memories.

We really like 27Jewelry: heck, our wedding rings are made by them. The designs are simple but beautiful. Janja Prokić is another of our favourites - her designs are spectacular and she uses interesting stones. Zdeněk Vacek, one half of the former iconic Zorya brand, makes stunning pieces, and so does Maria Kobelova. Where do you put all that bling? In the jewellery bowl by Ruckl, of course!

Jan’s gift idea no 5: custom jeans by Chatty

Okay, this was Zuzi’s gift to me for my birthday last year, but I gotta steal it because it was so good: the idea is you pay a certain price for jeans, and then your loved one will get to Chatty’s shop in Old Town’s Haštalská and choose pretty much everything about the jeans from material and colour to stitching, style, shape, pockets and all the little details. At the end of the process, you have a pair of jeans that fit perfectly and are exactly like you want them. I was surprised by the speed of the process - I had my pair just some two weeks after my first visit. And BTW, Chatty’s ready-to-wear models are pretty cool, too.

Jan and Zuzi’s recommended shops

Need more inspiration? You need a great shop that sells products that are inspiring in themselves. Here’s our favourites in Prague that we never leave empty-handed:

Nila is a one-stop shop for many various gifts from sustainable fashion to a great selection of cosmetics, homewares, books, souvenirs, and gifts for kids. We rarely leave without buying anything. Ingredients may not sell Czech products, but we’ll give it a pass this time: their selection of high-end and interesting perfumes and cosmetics makes us wonder why would we ever buy a fragrance elsewhere? Watch out: this store in the Jewish Quarter is highly addictive. You’ll be back. Shop Up Stories is a store that gives a chance to smaller, independent manufacturers and designers that may not have the size, volume or following to have a space of their own. This way, this multi-brand store offers a bit of everything, but the selection is well curated and beautiful. Finally, Book Therapy next door is our fix for our book cravings. We always buy something for us… and something for the little one.

(Full disclosure: we have paid or barter collaborations with the Nila store and Janja Prokic, which, however, doe not oblige us to post about them in this post: we would recommend them even if we had no closer relationship with them. We also get free stuff from Lukáš Novák from time to time.)

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Specialty Coffee in Prague: the 2021 edition

We tend to write about specialty coffee in Prague every year or so, and it’s about time we revisit our piece on Prague coffee scene again because while most things have stayed the same, some might never stay the same after 2020. For comparison, check this very same post for 2020.

Again this year, we’d like to split our coffee guide to Prague into two posts: the first that explains the local coffee culture and will help you navigate the lay of the land when it comes to coffee in Prague. You know, a post we would like to read before we travel anywhere.

The second post will list our favorite coffee shops in Prague. Okay? Let’s get right to it.

Prague Coffee Scene

When not affected by, let’s say, a global friggin’ pandemic, Prague coffee scene is vibrant and very much alive. It includes tiny espresso bars with baristas that are passionate about their craft (how else can you explain the coffee-related tattoos on their visible body parts?), grand cafés with a rich and vibrant history… and mediocre coffee and lukewarm service at best. And it includes neighborhood spots that can feel more like restaurants during the lunch hour. The people of Prague like their coffee, and they like to socialize over it, which is, to many here, the main point of visiting a coffee shop in the first place. (That is, until everybody gets their pair of AirPods and escapes into their own alternative reality fueled by a cheap data plan and a Netflix subscription. Oh well.)

Before we get into this, one disclaimer: this post will describe the specialty coffee scene in Prague. For historical, traditional cafés, please look elsewhere. These coffee shops, while undoubtedly beautiful and packed with history, do not serve specialty coffee (which is a nice way of saying we don’t like the coffee) and will not be covered in these posts. There is just one exception at the moment: Café Savoy, which is the only café that would pass as „traditional“ and serves specialty coffee, and one of the very few restaurants in Prague that serves specialty coffee (the other one probably being Eska).

So what are the peculiarities of Prague coffee scene? Any specific drinks? Customs? How about the tipping? Read on.

Should I stay or should I go

The last time around, we wrote that “Prague had virtually no take away culture”. A year of lockdowns and shutdowns later, take away culture IS the coffee culture, as indoor dining was an option for mere 15 our off the last 120 days or so as of the writing of this.

People in Prague have embraced this sudden and abrupt change… because what other option did they really have? Standing in line at a social distance while chatting to the others in that line has become the new defining feature of a neighbourhood coffee shop. And having your own reusable cup has become a must for those who dislike all the waste generated by the take out culture that has come to dominate Prague coffee and food scene.

But if and when the pandemic goes away for good and indoor dining becomes an option again, it will be interesting to see if take out coffee will still be the dominant form of taking your coffee, or if coffee drinkers of Prague will go back to their old ways, meaning drinking coffee from a regular cup or glass inside a coffee shop. You see, just like most cities of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, Prague had virtually no take away culture before the pandemic. Getting coffee in a to go cup is a fairly recent phenomenon. As a result, it is a good idea to make a reservation in a popular coffee shop during rush hours, if they allow it online. Some specialty coffee shops do not take reservations during weekends or at all, so please check. In any case, since most people sit down to drink coffee with friends or family, reservation is a good idea.

Now, before you get nice and cosy on a couch, you should know that Czech coffee shops (and Czechs in general) do implicitly require a certain tempo when it comes to drinking coffee, and the service will eventually start stopping by and asking if you want anything else. If you don’t, it’s time to move on. Sitting for three hours while sipping a single cup of filter coffee endlessly is a general source of frustration and annoyance. (Yup, we’re looking at you, study abroad students.)

Another consequence of no take-away culture is the fact that most coffee shops don’t actually sell that many cups of coffee and depend on additional sales to make a living. So expect nearly every coffee shop and espresso bar to serve some baked goods, teas, juices, sodas, and very often alcohol (beer and wine) and some small snacks along with the coffee. It is absolutely possible to have a light lunch in many coffee shops, although not many coffee shops offer cooking on par with the better restaurants in town. Another thing: coffee shops in Prague tend to have fairly long opening hours. Most of them will open anywhere between 8am and 10am, and while some may close around 6pm, many stay open until 8pm or even 10pm. Beat that, Melbourne!

If you do insist on takeaway coffee and don’t carry your own cup, look out for the many coffee shops that participate in the „otoč kelímek“ project. Basically, you pay additional 2 EUR for a durable plastic cup that you can later return at any other participating coffee shop for a full refund or a fresh new cup when you get a new cup of coffee. Most often, locals will pay the deposit on the first cup and then keep returning and getting new cups whenever they get another cup of coffee to go. An elegant and beautiful solution.

While there are many small espresso bars in town, many coffee shops will shock you with how generous they can be with the space, especially if you come from high-rent/small-space environments like the NYC or Tokyo. Airy and spacious coffee shops are a Prague specialty, ideally with great views.

Tipping in coffee shops with service is similar to tipping in restaurants: 10% if you’re happy. Just round it up to something. If you’re not tipping at all, you are either (1) unhappy with either the product or service, or both, (2) really cheap, (3) our moms. Prices of coffee are very reasonable: you should expect to pay somewhere in the area of EUR 2 - 2.5 for espresso and batch filter coffee, to roughly 3EUR for cappuccinos, flat whites and hand brews.

One last thing: while the baristas and the service in specialty coffee shops will look very, very young (in line with the general food service industry in Prague), most baristas see their work as a viable career at least for some years to come. Which means they will care more about their craft that the bored college kid who’s just there for the summer job before he or she gets their big break and moves into something better. The result? In our experience better coffee and service.

What to get

Please note that most coffee shops in Prague pull split (single) shots, so your cappuccino may be weaker than what you might be used to home. (Especially if your home is the USA or the UK.) Ask for an extra shot if you need it.

The terminology is plain and simple. Want filter coffee? Ask for a batch brew for a regular cup of joe, or a hand brew if you want choice of beans. Espresso is an espresso, single or double. If you want milk with your coffee, the names are (ranked from smallest to biggest): espresso macchiato, cortado (ask for it even if it’s not on the menu), cappuccino, flat white, latte. There have been debates about the use of the word „piccolo“. If a coffee shop uses the term (most specialty coffee spots don’t, with a passion) it just means a plain espresso.

Lactose-intolerant? No worries. Most good coffee shops offer non-dairy alternatives (traditionally soy, oat or almond), mostly at a small additional cost. The really good coffee shops will have a drink that mixes coffee and alcohol. There’s nothing like getting a bit caffeinated and a bit buzzed in the winter. Trust us on that one.

Any special Czech coffee drinks? Only two. „Alžírská kava“ („Algerian coffee“) is a classic drink of grandmas in pastry shops: basically filter coffee or espresso with whipped cream and eggnog. (Not sure what any of this has to do with Algeria, but whatever. For a non-alcoholic version, ask for „vídeňská kava“ or “Viennese coffee“) If you want a modern, specialty coffee version of this, head over to the Myšák pastry shop in the New Town. Another Czech classic is „turecká káva“, or „Turkish coffee“, basically unfiltered coffee, but unlike real Turkish coffee, the grind is fairly large and sets at the bottom of the glass. If you’ve ever participated in a coffee cupping, you’ll know what we’re talking about here. This is the classic coffee Czechs are mostly forced to drink when they visit grandma and grandpa in the countryside. (It’s the classic “Turkish or Nescafé” dilemma.)

Things to buy

Have a nerdy barista friend or relative and want to bring them something memorable from Prague:? So nice of you, really. Here’s our tips.

First and foremost, Prague is home to a few good coffee roasting operations. The first logical choice would be Doubleshot. As one of the oldest specialty coffee roasters, they are reliable, have access to good beans, and are fairly inexpensive (they have larger packaging than most). Their limited editions are worth the splurge in our book. You can buy their beans in the coffee shops they own (Můj šálek kávy, Místo or Alza coffee) and in the Sklizeno organic shops.

Our other favorite is Candycane Coffee by the people behind onesip coffee, one of our favorite espresso bars in town. The Made Mama Proud limited series are great, but their regular roasts are good too. They have been making leaps ahead recently and if you’ll drink coffee in any of the more recent coffee shops, the odds are you will be tasting their roasts. Yup, these guys know pretty much everyone on the coffee scene here.

Another very interesting operation is the Naughty Dog, started fairly recently by the coffee power duo Gwilym Davies (you can listen to our English podcast with Gwilym here) and Petra Veselá. These two should have a statue somewhere on a big square here, as they have, in a way, set the high standards of the Prague coffee scene by training pretty much all the very first fantastic Prague baristas in their little training facility outside of Prague in Jílové. Gwilym is a former World Barista Champion and now a WBC judge, and Petra has written the scene defining books for baristas.

BTW, that would be another great gift if you have the money - a barista course with Gwilym and Petra, who happen to prepare top contenders from all around the world for the World Barista Championships. For great one-day coffee courses and lessons held in English, you should also look at Doubleshot. Their training centre in the Karlin district is great and Terezka, the lecturer, was a Czech Barista Champion, so she’s the real thing.

Other specialty coffee roasting operations worth looking at include La Bohéme Café, Coffee Source, Dos Mundos, Alf&Bet, Mamacoffee, Nordbeans, Father’s, Beansmith’s, Rusty Nails, and I am sure I am missing a few. You should not go wrong with any of these.

The Czech Republic is also home to Simax, the biggest manufacturer of laboratory glass in the world. Several good coffee shops in the country and abroad have been using their heat-resistant, high-quality yet affordable lab glass as decanters for hand brews. Click here to see where you can buy them. If you want the same material and quality but in a modern design that is functional and striking, check out Lukáš Novák’s V60 in Wonderland coffee set. It’s the set we are using at home daily, and it still isn’t boring months later.

One might say that the beautiful glass by our fave Rückl might be overkill for coffee, but if you want to dazzle with your brew, why not? Czechia is know for its glass, and we honestly think Rückl gives you the best bang for your buck. (Disclaimer: Rückl is an advertiser in our Prague Foodie Map, but that does not change the fact we love them and would write about them even if they weren’t.)

Czechia also has a long tradition in ceramics, so let’s have two traditional and three modern ceramics recommendations.

The Bohemia Cobalt series by Architect Pelcl brings the classic Blue Onion Design into the 21th Century. You can buy their sets in the factory store at Perlová street in the New Town. If you want to go full throttle on the Blue Onion design, we won’t stop you. And the Moravská keramika z dílny Kaňovských makes hand-made, Kallita-compatible brewers, ceramic to go cups and regular coffee mugs and cups adorned with classic Moravian patters. Cute? You bet. You can buy them here (consider the nice walk to the Musaion a healthy bonus).

We stole this pic of Kallita-compatiblee brewer by Moravská keramika from here.

For something more modern, have a look at the Mindset cups. They are handmade and beautifully finished ad would be a treasure in any cool and trendy coffee shop around the world. To buy them, you have to go to the actual workshop in the Letná district, which is actually fun. For similar styles, have a look at Bisqit and their beautiful modern cups. Again, you have to visit their studio, this time in the wonderful Vinohrady district. And finally, our friends over at In August Company make beautiful cups that we drink our daily home brews from. Their aprons are also pretty cool, but for proper barista aprons, look at Apronista. The website lets you customize your own and have it delivered to Prague. So easy.

We stole this pic of Bisqit cups from here.

So there you have it. Prague coffee scene in a nutshell or two. For a list of our favorite coffee shops in Prague, stay tuned until next week!

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Taste of Prague's 2020 Prague Christmas Shopping Guide

It’s that time of the year and the wind is high for some serious Christmas shopping, and it’s been a tradition of ours to publish a Prague Christmas Shopping Guide - just like Goop, but mostly Czech, and you won’t have to stuff anything anywhere. Instead, what you’ll find below are some tried ands tested tips for high quality products made in the Czech Republic and elsewhere. Let’s get to it!

It’s that time of the year and the wind is high for some serious Christmas shopping, and it’s been a tradition of ours to publish a Prague Christmas Shopping Guide - just like Goop, but mostly Czech, and you won’t have to stuff anything anywhere. Instead, what you’ll find below are some tried and tested tips for high quality products made in the Czech Republic and elsewhere. Let’s get to it!

Taste of Prague’s Christmas offering

Let’s start with the best. Since Covid kinda took our business away, we’ve been trying to focus on the positive… and locals with cash. But honestly, we have worked hard on these experiences and products, and as always, we test them against a question: would we ourselves buy this? Would we be happy? And the answer is a resounding yes.

We’ve always known how to build an experience, and we have put out spring dates for two: our Moravian Wine Tour Weekends with Jan let you forget everything and enjoy the weekend in the company of great wines, great winemakers and a tiny group (no more than 8) of like-minded people. Jan thinks it’s the best thing we do. Close second? Our Dinner and Cocktails Tour - four hours spent having dinner in two of our favorite Prague restaurants and two of our favorite Prague cocktail bars. Can’t have more fun in Prague with your clothes on. And now as a Christmas special, we will send you as beautiful voucher for both of these.

“How about products?” we pretend to hear you ask. Well, we have two: the Prague’s Finest Christmas edition box of great food drops early next week, and we only have 20 of those prepared. A great gift for someone who loves food just like we do. And finally we have the “Three Moravian Myth-Busting Reds” wine pack that includes the best reds we have found during our wine tours. This is for those who incorrectly believe Moravian reds are inferior. This will change their mind.

And that’s that! Please visit our online store and if you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them.

Jan’s shopping tips

I love records and turntables. If your significant other is like me, you can't miss with a turntable. Zuzi bought me the Rega Planar 3 and it's amazing, but the Planar 1 will do if your budget is a bit lower. Don't have an amp and speakers? Some decks have bluetooth and will connect to your wireless speakers, like this by Sony, or this by the Czech company Pro-Ject (they are formally owned by Austrians, but are made here in the Czech Republic and based on a tried-and-tested Czech design from the 1970s). I buy my records online here - they always arrive well packed and in perfect condition. Here's a list of our favorite record stores in Prague, and this is an amazing mail-order shop in Tabor's.

If your music set up is based entirely on your phone and streaming, I have some tips for a cool wireless speaker. So first of all, you have to go Czech: these Bluetooth-enabled speakers by Acoustic Quality will provide a great sound and a no-nonsense approach at a great price. We personally love our REVO SuperConnect. A bit pricier, but the sound is really great and it looks lovely. If you absolutely need a stereo pair, have a look at Ruark MR1 Mk2. I've heard them somewhere and they were great. We also have a B&O Beosound A1 for travel and it is hard to fault - small and fantastic sound. And if you have the money, try the Naim MuSo, or the KEF LSX.

If your guy loves watches, the rule of thumb is: don't buy him watches, unless you have a big budget or know exactly what he wants. Or maybe focus on design rather than the horological value, because the odds are you may not have the money for a Rolex or an IWC. But again, it does make sense to go local and just buy a beautiful piece by the traditional Czech company Prim. Love the history and the aesthetics.

Finally, drinking. I won’t tell you what your man wants to drink. You know that better than I do. But I can tell you what I like to drink FROM. Wines, easy: Zalto glasses. Or if you want to go Czech, you have to go Kvetna1794. For whiskey, I really like the personalised cut tumblers from Ruckl. Looks great under any tree.

Zuzi’s Shopping Tips

My Christmas shopping guide? Sure, there's so many everywhere, but this one is mine. And if you don't know what to buy yet, this very local selection might come in handy.

If you've ever heard a complaint that you haven't brought any flowers in a while, we got you covered with the first tip: flower subscription by @plevel, @kytkyodpotoka, @loukykvet and a beautiful vase by @dechem, @lukasnovak, @v.svabenikova, @pauli_ben_ or @pekarmilan will seal the deal.

We don't know how about you, but we've started some home improvement project this year, and beautiful young art is a great addition that will tie any room together. Have a look at @youngrealart or the pieces by @antoniestanova, @martin.lukac, @michaelacervena or @david_krnansky. The perfect companion piece? An annual pass to @doxprague or @ngprague.

Out friends over at @inaugust.co make beautiful cups and bowls for a tea ceremony. Add a great oolong tea from @teamountain and maybe The Monocle book of Japan (to be had at @booktherapycz) and when you close your eyes, you can feel you're there!

If you're a coffee drinker, choose the V60 in Wonderland home brewing set by @lukasnovak (or just buy the cups). Add coffee from a Czech roaster - and there's so many to choose from: @candycanecoffee, @doubleshotcz, @pikola_sumperk, @respectcoffeecz. And complete the package with prepaid coffee vouchers in your favorite coffee shop. Our choice would be @onesipcoffee or @etapa_pgfoodies.

If you're more of a wino, we'd recommend the glasses by @lukashoudek_artist. And how about a wine package from @winegeek_cz, @veltlin or @totalwinebar… and if we were you, we'd buy a voucher for our Moravian wine tour with Jan (and one of our "Best of Moravian Wine Tour" wine packages ).

We miss travel. We really do. We're really hoping that we will leave for Tuscany in the spring... again. It's just so beautiful and you can drive. So our tip? Voucher for a trip to Tuscany and the Tuscany guide by our friends over at Sí, Toskánsko!

And because "exotic" travel is probably out this winter, so what's the next best thing? A cooking course or a guided tour of Sapa by Marcela Vuong, along with a basket full of ingredients for Vietnamese cuisine.

How about a trip to Brno? We love Brno, and a ceramics making workshop by Kvítka v bytě would make us happy. Add cups by @kera_atelier or @bisqit_ceramics or @daniel.machill to complete the joyous gift.

We don't do yoga. But this mat by @pepeandwolf might make us reconsider it. And how about a yoga lesson by @namastery or @yogagangfam?

A piece of jewelry is always a good idea. Also, we are convinced Czech jewelers are one of Europe's best. For instance, the pieces by @janja_prokic_studio are breathtaking every year. But you;ll find beautiful thing in the portfolios of less famous creators like @kaykonecna, @mariakobelova, @27jewelry or @studio_muun… and don't forget to add a stylish jewelry box by @ruckl_cz or @ema_mamisu.

We bought the scented sticks by @pigmentarium_parfums at the beginning of the fall lockdown, and they've been making us happy ever since: the smell is beautiful and lasts forever. And they joined forces with @terina.prihoda.stetinova to create a beautiful stand for them: voilá - a piece of art!

And last home accessory tip: a stool by @durodesign.cz is super stylish, and a subscription to @elledecoration is a gift that will keep on giving.

Vouchers

If you suffer from a strong case of indecision, or if you’re stuck in a gifter’s block, say it with a voucher. Vouchers are also great for parents: it’s a polite way of steering your parents stylistically to where you’ve always wanted them to be, while giving them the illusion of choice within a strictly curated pool of choices of your design. Here’s a few shops that do offer vouchers and we think they’d make a great gift:

Nila Store: Sustainability is the name of the game here, and Nila’s stores in Vinohrady and Karlín offer quite an array of beautiful, ethically made products ranging from fashion to home accessories or books.

Artiséme: This little piece of heaven right behind the John Lennon Wall offers some fantastic pieces by pre-eminent young Czech designers. If you want to give glass, jewellery or any type of artsy design, this is your place to go. An absolute gem.

Book Therapy: A tabletop book is always a beautiful present, but Book Therapy does not stop there: their beautifully curated selection offers some interesting international and domestic books. A treasure.

Ingredients: After visiting Ingredients, the only smell you’ll be missing is that of the money you will have left behind. Ingredients offers boutique cosmetics and perfumes you will not fins anywhere else. A total winner.

Taste Prague 11/19/20 Taste Prague 11/19/20

Product Review: V60 in Wonderland by Lukáš Novák

We thought we’d start a series of reviews that we think you might find interesting. And we’ll start big: with the coffee brewing set by young Czech designer Lukáš Novák. We’ve been using it for over a week now, and we’re ready to give you a thumbs up or a thumbs down on it. So what’s it going to be? Does it work well? Is it a good gift? Read on.

We thought we’d start a series of reviews that we think you might find interesting. And we’ll start big: with the V60 in Wonderland coffee brewing set by young Czech designer Lukáš Novák. We’ve been using it for over a week now, and we’re ready to give you a thumbs up or a thumbs down on it. So what’s it going to be? Does it work well? Is it a good gift? Read on.

First, a disclaimer: Lukáš Novák, the designer, is a friend of ours. Lukáš gave us the set to try and tell him what we think. So while there is some bias here, you should also know that Jan has an allergy to hype and values your money as much as his. So here’s Jan take:

Who’s Lukáš Novák

So first some background. Lukáš Novák is a Czech glass and ceramics designer that has created quite a bit of buzz by working with some big names in the industry - especially his work for Rückl, with whom he created a beautiful Absinthe glass or a celebratory bottle for Pilsner Urquell, has been a huge success. He is also one of the nicest people we know… and not at all bad to look at, if you don’t mind us saying. No, really, and all around nice guy, and talented, too.

With the coffee set, he ventured into the world of borosilicate glass (read „laboratory glass“) by joining forces with Simax, a Czech company that is the biggest producer of laboratory glass in the world, processing over 220 tons of glass a day. The thing with borosilicate glass is that you can „shape it in your hands“, as Lukáš describes it.

What is it

Anyway, we have received the whole shebang - two glass cups, the decanter and the dripper. They all come in a neat cardboard box. The dripper is Lukáš’s take on the Hario V60 dripper, the 02 size. The decanter takes, I’d say, about a liter of coffee when full, but feels smaller than a Chemex, for instance, because it does not need the top part of Chemex’ convex shape. It’s a good size that feels good in your hands.

It’s difficult to describe the aesthetics of the pieces, which are perfectly matched to each other. I think the word is „crumbled“. Imagine if the set was made of chocolate and then left in a car on a hot day for an hour. And then you take a piece in your hand, you realise you’ve bent one side with your fingers and as you try to save the day, you begin to „level“ all the other shapes with your hands, in reality bending them even further. And that’s how the set looks - all the shapes are slightly bent and distorted, as if moulded in hand. Oh yeah, and the set is very light, and the edges of the glasses are round and a bit thicker, which makes for a nice drinking experience.

The bad

(EDIT: After our initial review below, we have been given an updated version of the dripper, which does resolve the main clogging issue to a considerable degree, reducing the brewing time.)

Now, I will tell you what the problem is. And it is a real problem… if you are a bit nerdy about coffee. So if you don’t know what „extraction“ means in the context of coffee, feel free to skip this. The problem is the dripper - it is a bit… uhhh… convex? Which means that the paper does not fully align with the sides and sits at the bottom drain, unsupported. When you brew the coffee, the filter works a bit like a plug - it clogs the flow of brewed coffee, meaning that the coffee fills the bottom of the dripper, clogging the flow even further. It helps if you lift the filter up by the sides from now and then to drain the coffee, but it’s a bit of a drag. You shouldn’t have to do that.

As a result, you get longer extraction times. With my set up and using a Hario V60, I usually aim for a 4-minute brew time. With the same set up but Lukáš’s dripper, I get about a 6-minute brew time, which is about what I get from a Chemex, no matter how hard I try. Now, before fainting baristas start writing angry comments about these times, let me be clear here: I know my technique sucks, but I am a coffee drinker and not a barista, and I’ve learnt to make coffee at home that I personally like, so deal with it.

So you get a longer brew time, meaning higher extraction. That said, I liked every cup of coffee I made through this, so maybe it’s just a nuisance having to spend two extra minutes to brew coffee, and having to lift that filter up quite often. (I also thought of maybe using a Chemex filter inside, hoping that the thicker filter will retain its structure a bit more maybe?) One thing’s clear: the product shows that Lukáš is an artist first, and an industrial designer… ehhh… third or fourth. If you’re a serious coffee nerd, this may be - and probably will be - a show stopper for you. If you’re not, maybe it’s not a big deal. I am on the fence on this one.

The good

Having said that, and while confessing that it was frustrating to use the dripper at first, I have found myself using Lukáš’s brewer every single time over the good old Hario V60 that was sitting right next to it.

The thing is… the whole V60 in Wonderland package is just really beautiful and a pure joy to use in your hands, and drink coffee from the cups. I am not sure what it is, but it is hard to stop using it once you start - I’ve seen my coffee consumption increase just to use the damn thing. It’s like an old episode of Top Gear I remember where they tested three comparable convertibles and all agreed that the technically worst car - the Alfa Romeo Brera - was the car they all liked the best. There’s just something about it. It’s like playing football in Prada sneakers. You may have to adjust your technique a bit, but you sure liloveke wearing those sneakers.

Should you buy one?

That depends. If you buy it for your barista boyfriend who has a bushy beard and a La Marzocco tattoo on his forearm, he will probably use it a few times to make you happy and then quietly start using his old brewer.

But if you just like to make - and drink - coffee at home and like nice things, it is a really nice gift for someone you love or for yourself. It is beautiful. Not in a way Chemex is beautiful though: I love Chemex for its simplicity and no-nonsense industrial design. It is a beautiful thing because the aesthetics are streamlined and utilitarian. Lukáš’s coffee set is beautiful like a piece of art that you can use. There are probably easier ways to make coffee. But there sure aren’t more beautiful ways to make coffee than this.

The V60 in Wonderland is… pricy. But then again, beautiful objects tend to be. Is it worth it for you? That is a questions only you can answer. Me personally, I am putting Lukáš’s number in my banned list because despite all the criticisms, I ain’t giving this thing back.

[Photo taken from lukasnovak.org]

Taste Prague 1/13/20 Taste Prague 1/13/20

Specialty Coffee in Prague: the 2020 edition

So it’s been nearly three years since we wrote about specialty coffee shops in Prague. And it’s high time to revisit Prague coffee again - just last year, Prague saw the opening of nearly 10 coffee shops that serve specialty coffee - which is astonishing, if you realize that we didn’t even have 10 coffee shops that served specialty coffee some eight, nine years ago.

This time, we’d like to split our coffee guide to Prague into two posts: the first that explains the local coffee culture and will help you navigate the lay of the land when it comes to coffee in Prague. You know, a post we would like to read before we travel anywhere. The second post will list our favorite coffee shops in Prague. Okay? Let’s get right to it.

The second post will list our favorite coffee shops in Prague. Okay? Let’s get right to it.

Prague Coffee Scene

Prague coffee scene is vibrant and very much alive. It includes tiny espresso bars with baristas that are passionate about their craft (how else can you explain the coffee-related tattoos on their visible body parts?), grand cafés with a rich and vibrant history… and mediocre coffee and lukewarm service at best. And it includes neighborhood spots that can feel more like restaurants during the lunch hour. The people of Prague like their coffee, and they like to socialize over it, which is, to many here, the main point of visiting a coffee shop in the first place. (That is, until everybody gets their pair of AirPods and escapes into their own alternative reality fueled by a cheap data plan and a Netflix subscription. Oh well.)

So what are the peculiarities of Prague coffee scene? Any specific drinks? Customs? How about the tipping? Read on.