Prague with kids: five indoor activities for kids in Prague

So, you’re in Prague with kids, and it’s raining. Bummer, but not the end of the world. We have a kid, too - a pesky 7yo old boy who loves Minecraft, Sprunki (if you don’t know, congratulations), and treats in any shape or form - and keeping him occupied can be a challenge. Below are some of our favorite spots.

Just a side note: while Prague is generally very kid-friendly, this is still Central Europe, a part of the world where retired curators guarding the gallery exhibitions can frown at the smallest signs of „fun“ and shush you endlessly. Sadly, that is not how our 7yo son, who enjoys everything with a strong „Zorba the Greek“ energy, rolls, so there can be friction. Just be mindful of that, otherwise you’re totally fine.

This is when we go when the weather sucks, and our son is bored.

National Agricultural Museum

One word: tractors. The basement level of the musem has loads of real tractors, but also small, push-cart-style tractors that all kids seem to absolutely adore. There is a tractor where you can add fuel, do some basic work with your tractor and so on. The upper levels of the museum are pretty fun too: the top level includes screens where you can add ingredinets and follow the guidelines to make some classic Czech dishes, you can shop for food in an in-house supermarket (kids go nuts over the price scanners), learn about recycling or hang in their gingerbread cottage. The middle levels include displays about fishing and fish farming, water circulation, forest habitat protections and so on. This is actually one fun musem.

Now, let’s get real here: you might be thinking - isn’t the National Technical Museum right next door cooler? No, it is not. While the central hall with planes, trains and automobiles is stunning, and some of the displays are cool, this is not an interactive museum and you can hardly touch anything. It’s a bit like taking your kid to a candy store and then tell them you forgot your wallet at home. Frustrating. (Maybe it’s okay for older kids who are super disciplined. Not a group our son is currently a member of.)

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Army Museum

The Army Museum flies completely below the radar and was refurbished recently. The admission is free and it opens your door to visiting the awesome National Memorial at the Vitkov hill above. It also includes a slightly gamified route for kids - you have to look for cabinets with lion paws and your kids can try on Medieval helmets and swords, write a letter from the front to their families (this usually yields super funny and/or cute results), decode morse code messages and the like. It is also a museum that tells the story of a small nation in the middle of Europe trying to stand its ground, fighting two world wars and manufacturing lots of military stuff in the process. The constructivist building that houses the museum can be quite stunning, too, especially around the staircase area.

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Kunsthalle

Kunsthalle is one of the reasons our JJ doesn’t think museums and galeries are a complete drag. This relatively young art space has lots of things going for it when you’re a child: first, the space itself is quite complex and a bit of a maze, which our son loves. Second, there’s a proper kids arts lab that will keep creative types occupied for… well, at least minutes, and a super cute reading corner with loads of books for children and adults alike. And their gift shop has a great selection of books and items for kids. The art exhibitions are well curated and always custom-installed into the specific space, which makes for intriguing and immersive experiences. And it’s „on the way“ - just nestled underneath the Prague Castle near the Malostranska subway stop. (Side note: some locals see the museum, owned by a local coal baron family, as artwashing. It does not pass our threshold for a boycott, but it’s fair that you know.)

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Movie at Bio Oko

Going to the movies is a thing in the Czech Republic: given the quite massive movie industry (Czechoslovakia was called „Hollywood of the East“ during the Cold War), Czechs love watching movies as much as they do love making them. Which also means that Prague is full of movie theatres, ranging from modern IMAX multi-screen palaces to tiny art-house theatres tucked away in small streets. Our favorite for kids is the Bio Oko in the swanky Letná district: founded in the 1930s and now run by the good people of the Aero Kina group (think Alamo Drafthouse meets Criterion), Oko is a super popular neighborhood place to hang out (it includes a well-stocked and frequented bistro/bar) and see a movie: they gutted the bottom part of the seats and replaced them with beach chairs, bean bags and the like, which means the smallest ones can run around and wiggle and misbehave during their children matinee programs, and no one will raise an eybrow. And they run movies in English, too.

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Childrens Museum

Seated in the former Federal Assembly Building/National Museum (which is cool for kids, too, with its Hall of Minerals, or the prehistoric life displays, and a stunning building in its own right), the Childrens Museum is an interactive area where kids learn about various facets of life through game and interaction. There’s no particular theme - the museum covers anything from history to photography to environment - but it is a place that will keep your little ones occupied for… 90 minutes, because that’s the time they sell tickets for. Booking a ticket for a particular time slot online is a must, and they sell fast, so do yourself a favor and do it now. And if you can’t get a ticket, there’s always…

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Bohus tip: Public Transport Museum

Trams. Loads of trams. This little depot of Prague’s Public Transport company has been repurposed to show the various trams that cruised the streets of Prague since the late 1800s. This is a cute little museum that kids seem to really enjoy, and it is conveniently located in the Střešovice district, just a 10-minute walk behind the Prague castle, and a 10-minute walk from Villa Müller on the other side. And if it’s raining hard, just catch a direct tram to Bio Oko or Kunsthalle, or to the subway that connects you to everything else.

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Prague neighbourhood guide: Bubenec

Bubeneč is a very quiet, green, residential neighbourhood known for embassies occupying large villas, and Stromovka, the biggest park in Prague. This is the district where people settle to start families - it is full of parks, playgrounds and kindergartens, with very few bars or any night life to talk of. It is now na affluent neighbourhood that ticks a lot of boxes - it is near the city centre, but not in it, and while it offers the leaf cover of some fancy districts like Hanspaulka, it does not feel as far away and has everything you’d need.

Now, before we start, we use the term „Bubeneč“ very liberally and do not stick to its precise, administrative borders. So no angry letters please - the are we cover here will inevitably, at times, spill over into Dejvice.

Getting in and out

You will gravitate towards the Hradčanská and Dejvická subway and tram stops. They are both on the green line of the subway that connects you to the historical centre. But you can use the trams, too: the 18 gets you there from Old Town, 20 from Lesser Town, and 8 and 26 from New Town (via the cool district of Letná). Weather permitting, you can also walk to Bubeneč via the beautiful Letná park, or through the Royal Garden if you’re at the Prague Castle.

Staying there

Residential districts of Prague don’t always offer hotels targeting tourism, but bizarrely, Bubeneč does have at least three that come to mind. The Hotel International is an absolute icon, and a beacon of 1950s Communist Social Realism. This is luxury living the way Communists imagined it… and it is… interesting in the best sense of the word. The Diplomat hotel is just off the border of Bubeneč in Dejvice, and it’s a comfortable business hotel with everything you’d ever need. You’ll be at the airport in 15 min, and you’re 15 min from the city centre by subway or tram that stop right in front of the hotel. And finally, Hotel Schwaiger is a small boutique hotel right at the edge of the Stromovka park and right across the street from the ironing Na Slamníku pub. This is a great option if you like your accommodation in a calmer area.

Coffee

Where Bubeneč punches way above its weight is specialty coffee: we literally don’t have to travel outside of the district to get plenty caffeinated… and stay that way all week.

It is no secret that we have our daily morning coffee at Kafemat. Not only does everybody know our name there, but we strongly believe it is one of the top coffee shops in the whole of Prague, with seasoned professionals making delicious cups of coffee even during the morning rush hour. This is a neighbourhood spot that every neighbourhood deserves.

But Kafemat is a small espresso bar with basically no food except some re-sold baked stuff, so if you want to eat with your coffee, or sit with a bigger group, your best bet in the district is Místo, one of coffee shops run b Doubleshot, the OG of specialty coffee roasters in Prague. This place is very popular and for good reason: it serves great coffee and solid food, wine and beer, and can keep you happy from the morning till early evening. Plus they sell their own roasted beans, which are a Great souvenir from Prague.

Within a stone’s throw from Místo you’ll find La forme, which combines specialty coffee with great baking - Laforme may serve our favorite croissants in town, ideally eaten on the small bench or a few tables on the leafy street outside. (There’s virtually no place to sit inside.) Mazelab coffee a few blocks further away, which belongs to the coffee empire of Jackie Tran, serves great coffee in a former garage-turned-designer coffee shop. Think Apple Store simplicity and great coffee to create a zen-like experience. And Café Borzoi a bit further north is a small espresso bar that serves coffee by The Naughty Dog, another local roaster. Finally, Kiosek Kafe is a small stand at the Dejvická bus stop that may be technically in Dejvice, but it is worth mentioning here.

Sweet stuff

Bubeneč is also quite nice if you’re not on a diet. We guess that with all these parks and playgrounds, you need to refuel with carbs.

We have already mentioned La forme, one of the best bakeries in town if you like croissants - plain or filled - or pain au chocolat and the like. Just three blocks away is location of another Prague staple, Oh Deer Bakery, thank sells wonderful cronuts, pastries and now even bread. Speaking of best in town, a special mention must go to Kristyjan Chocolatiers. Founded by a Kristyna and Jan (the former worked in the food industry previously and the latter was a concierge at the Four Seasons), they have successfully turned their passion for pralines and chocolate into what we feel is the best chocolatiers in town. Their pralines and chocolates are delicious and the wrapping is luxurious - the best gift from Prague?

Bubeneč is also great if you crave ice-cream, with both Angelato and Crème de la Crème, the two staples from the city, represented. And you know what? Our little JJ likes the strawberry at Ovocný Světozor, and who are we to argue? Finally, Elvíra is a surprisingly good pastry shop in the lower part of Bubeneč, just across the street from Café Borzoi (they make a great combo together) - their pavlova, for instance, is delicious. And just across the corner is Bakery 60, a Korean bakery serving treats unlike any other in town.

Pubs

There are beers to be drunk in Bubeneč with at least three pubs that can easily claim to be iconic. First, the U Veverky pub is the Czech pub everybody in the neighbourhood likes, with all the staples of a Czech pub - good Pilsner, comfort food, Czech beer hygge in the form of wooden cladding in small rooms, and slightly annoyed staff. What more do you want? Then there’s Nádražka, the absolutely iconic pub at the Praha-Dejvice railway station. To a newbie, this is a puzzling, confusing experience: the beer is incredibly cheap, there is absolutely no table service ever, and the whole thing is a bizarre shrine of Mr Frýba, a late TV announcer from the 70s. But hey, if you’ve ever a teenager with an attitude in Prague, the odds are you loved this place. Finally, the Na Slamníku pub is a classic destination pub with a small hall for concerts and events, and a beautiful tiled oven in the main room. This is a Czech pub the way they looked and operated a hundred years ago. Great outdoor seating in the summer, too.

Fancy craft beers? Not a problem. Automat Matuška may have opened less than a month ago, but it’s already becoming a destination for those who love craft beers and good BBQ. This is a large space at the right spot that serves the entire portfolio what probably is the most popular Czech craft brewery today. Pivovar Bubeneč just a few blocks down Bubenečská is a quieter, neighbourly corner pub that has cute outdoor seating for the summer. And Krkonošská hospůdka is a joy to have a beer at - the place is a simple, friendly craft beer pub with a small but well curated list of beers. And those brave enough will try Basecamp, a craft beer shop, just across the street - there are some beers to be had there, too.

Restaurants

For the longest time, Bubeneč was a desert when it came to good restaurants, but recently things have been changing for the better.

Bizarrely, Bubeneč has one Bib Gourmand-awared restaurant (there’s only a handful of these in the Michelin guide for Prague), Dejvická 34. It is a classic Italian bistro with very skilled chefs that serve lunch specials and fine dining dinners, paired with nice Italian wines. This is a place that will appeal to you if you prefer comfort over adventure. Another popular Italian restaurant is Little Italy/Da Emanuel, formerly run by a famous Italian TV chef, Emanuele Ridi. It is a cosy trattoria that attracts some of the rich and famous here, and has a really nice outdoor seating in the summer. If you still crave more Italian, you can have something nice - or buy something nice - at the Italians Wine Food bistro, or just get a slice or a whole pie of pizza at the no-nonsense Fresh Point across the street.

Besides the pubs mentioned above, there’s not many Czech restaurants in the area, and the slightly cosmopolitan atmosphere (remember, embassies!) lends itself to foreign cuisine. So you can have a nice dumpling lunch at the Ukraininan Váleček bistro, a cool brunch or a bowl of pho or bibimbap at the An bistro that combines modern Vietnamese fast food with specialty coffee and craft beers, have something French at A Table in Mařákova, something Lebanese at U Cedru, Greek fast food at Fresh Greek or a longer Greek meal at Kavala, or a Japanese dinner or sushi at either Katsura in the Diplomat hotel, or Mash Hana just behind the Hradčanská subway stop. The Puškinovo náměstí is a twofer, with Na břehu Rhony offering French wines and food, and Na Urale pub serving fresh Pilsners and Czech pub fare to refuel as you watch your kids go nuts at the playground just across the road.

Shopping

So besides the Kristyjan pralines, if you want to get a souvenir from Bubeneč, it’s easy: you have to go the In August Company, founded by our friends Karolína and Teo, to get beautiful ceramics, a tote bag, tea cups or stationery famous among the locals. This is a gift that will fill you with happy memories for years to come. Pokojovky sells beautiful home plants for your home (in case you’re moving in)… and that’s about it we’re afraid.

What to do

Obviously, the parks genuinely call for a nice walk: the Stromovka is the biggest park in Prague with wonderful lakes, paths, jogging routes and playgrounds. You can use it to cross the river north and continue to Císařský ostrov island with equestrian centres, or take the pedestrian bridge further to reach Troja with the ZOO, the botanical garden and vineyards.

The newly opened Museum of Literature is a great destination to finish your walk through the villas of Bubeneč (check out especially the Slavíčkova street for that) or start your walk through lower Bubeneč towards the International Hotel. If you plan a walk from there to the National Technical Library in Dejvice, you’re in for a quiet, interesting stroll.

Finally, there’s the playgrounds. Prague does playgrounds well, and Bubeneč is at the forefront. Virtually every square will have something, from the shielded sand box and playground at Puškinovo náměstí, to the leafy playground at Lotyšská, or the trampoline at Náměstí Interbrigády, the bronze horses and splashy pools at Šabachův park, or the secluded park at the end of Václavkova. Follow that with ice-cream (see above), and you’re in for some quality family time.

Hana's Five Favorites in Prague

In an ideal world, Hana would have been the first team mate we would have hired. We did talk about her joining us waaaay back when Taste of Prague was just Zuzi and Jan. But we don’t live in an ideal world, and Hana was not ready to leave the big law she was practicing at the time, just like Zuzi did a few years before. Fast forward five years later, and we are incredibly happy to welcome Hana to our small team. She will fit in like a glove - she loves food and other people’s company. She still does practice law a bit, though. (Remember, not living in an ideal world?)

There is something about Hana. She has a calming, soothing presence, and you just can’t help but feel good when she’s around. She’s a great listener with heaps of empathy, and when she talks, you listen. We also assume she hates being bored: she’s a well-travelled fan of food, wine and coffee, an avid skier who likes to bike and hike, and has a keen interest in architecture and urban planning. Oh yes, and movies. You know, the smart kind.

What we’re trying to say she’s busy. Or crazy. One of those two things. But never mind her schedule, she was super quick to give her tips for her five favorite places in Prague and five social media accounts, and not one, not two, but four (!) secret tips for Prague. But that’s just Hanna being Hanna. So here we go!

Five Prague favorites

Eska

Fusion of Scandinavian, pure design, and Czech food. This place pampers all your five senses: when I touch the cut crystal glass, bite into something and have a look around, I just can’t help but feel great. And I love the combination of the relaxed, casual soundtrack with the noises from the open kitchen. And when the food arrives, the tastes and the smells are totally Czech, but the sight is pampered too - I really like the plating. And the communal table on the ground floor right next to the kitchen? Love being there during staff meals - it feels like the staff is fed, family style, by an imaginary grandma. Great vibe.

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Veltlin

I love other wine bars, too, but this one is the one that surprises me on every single visit. The last time it was Slovenian winemakers who made a wine that was, for lack of a better word, smoked? It really tasted like you’re drinking wine on a summer night next to a bonfire. It’s simply a wine bar that carries beautiful wines, and it’s outside of the historical centre, so below the radar for mass tourism.

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Bar Cobra

Just the origins of this place are genius: they converted the sleaziest slot machine bar in the whole of the Letná district into a beautiful bar that does everything well: cocktails, coffee and food. I love going there for breakfasts and weekend brunches until 3pm. You won’t make a mistake if you pop in for a bite any time of the day, though. And I love the interiors: although painted black, it never feels dark thanks to the large windows that open to the street in the summer, reminding me of some famous Constructivist villas.

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Typika

For me, Typika feels like a bit of Brno (Jan’s note: the capital of Moravia) in Prague, being a sister coffee shop of Brno’s Skog, which is a place I absolutely adore. Their coffee is excellent: I have bought beans from Rusty Nails Coffee Roasters home several times and never have been disappointed. And Typika is a place that the Nusle district sorely needed - there are few signs of gentrification in Nusle, apart from Nusle Beans and Espresso Bar. It’s a great place for breakfast, meetings and work, and I love the interiors - clean and pure like Eska, only broken with cut brick profiles that tie the place together. It’s just a beautiful coffee shop.

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Kavárna co hledá jméno

Despite the early troubles and difficulties, and the missing permits from the city authorities, the premises of the former carpentry shop are a fantastic refuge from the busy Andel area all around you. I love what the guys have been doing with the space throughout time, opening a coffee shop and a multi-purpose area that mostly serves as a gallery. And sure, while the looks are great, I also visit KCHJ to have their soufflé eggs Benedict and Florentine, just like about everyone. I have a sweet tooth when it comes to breakfast, but when I crave savory breakfast, I come here.

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Five social accounts

Cedric Grolet

Confession: I have an unhealthy obsession with Christmas baking. I don’t even eat the cookies most of the time. But Christmas baking is therapy. Family reunions mean baking - my personal record number of Christmas cookie varieties I made? Sixty-five.

But back to Cedric Grolet: he’s my age, and we share a passion for fruit in baking. What he does with fruits in pastry making - the colors and shapes of fruit - is incredibly inspiring. He also travels quite a bit, and I like to follow him on his voyage. He’s a big inspiration.

Frames of Sugar

Antonella lives in Rome. I’ve never really lived there but visit every single year because it’s my happy place where I feel at home. She loves sugar, but in a good way. Her recipes are not always about sugar but they are simple and rely on seasonal produce. And what I find relatable is that her sweet recipes are inspired by her mom and grandma. I am the same way. (When it comes to savory food, my grandma sticks to thee Czech classics while I prefer Asian flavors.) Both of these profiles are also simply beautiful to look at. Check them out!

Spirit Magazine, Storyous and Barlife

This is where I find inspiration when I don’t have the time to explore Prague on my own, or when I want to expand my explorations beyond Prague.

Archiweb

The same applies here, but for architecture - great tips for short trips and getaways, with lots of gems of public and private spaces. Whenever I travel, I look at the architecture and design at the destination, and I always try to combine it with a great food experience.

(Another great resource I forgot to mention is Lukas Hejlik’s Gastromapa. It’s simply nice to sit down in a beautiful café when you take a trip somewhere you’ve never been before.)

Design Mag

While Archiweb is about architecture, new developments and trends, design magazine is mostly about design, so it is my go to for tips on exhibitions. But it also presents visions into the future both in the Czech Republic and abroad. And I really like their website actually. It’s cute.

Secret tip in Prague

Unetice

This is not really secret for any local, but for me it’s an integral part of my biking trips: U Lasíku. I just love to chill over some savory or sweet kolache, get the raspberry soda, and just enjoy the moment. Mr Lasík may have been a wheel maker in my view: all the artifacts would suggest that. Super popular among cyclists and families with kids. Also, the best yeast buns and great breads with toppings, like the pork crackling spread, that go well with the beer on tap. Yum!

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Edison Filmhub

This opened literally a month ago or so. Tucked away between the Jerusalem Synagogue and the St George Church, the bar area is a refuge that is at the same time open to the park in front of it and far from the madding crowds walking through it. The film hub includes a high-tech cinema with great ventilation - you just close off the area behind the bar and you’re ready to go. I hate the huge cinemas but this art movie theatre by Mr Hronec from Film Europe is something I can stand behind. I love European cinema - it seems true and raw to me.

Kafe Pragovka

So this has been around for some time but I have just discovered it for myself. It’s a former factory that changes into a bar at night, and it tickles my creative fancy: it is a huge industrial, open space that lets a lot of light in. Great exhibits by artists who have their workshops in the building or elsewhere. Anything from smaller lunches to delicious soups, great wine and coffee. The first flag of gentrification of the Kolbenka area behind Karlin. I recommend it to anyone looking to escape the metropolis, enjoy the space or maybe get some work done.

Kasárna Karlin

Multi-purpose area with great wine and coffee. Just some r&r in Florenc, in the middle of the truly fascinating former barracks. Even if there was nothing there, it would still be a great place just to sit down and soak in the atmosphere. And I like what they’ve done with the place. Bonus: great outdoor movie theatre in the summer. I also like that no matter whether you visit the barracks just to throw a Frisbee around or go see a movie, it seems like you’re leaving the real world behind: there’s no advertisements anywhere, just quiet, and if you’re running out of ideas, you can play ping pong or in the sand pit. And the swimming pool is a fantastic venue for exhibitions.

Marketa's Five Favorites in Prague

The story of how Marketa became a member of Taste of Prague is complicated, but ultimately with a happy ending. We eyed her for some time about two years ago, but as we agreed on everything, she gave us the happy news: she was pregnant... and nauseated around food. Great. That's about as bad as health conditions for a food tour guide get. But the best things come to those who wait, so we waited, and ultimately Marketa joined us as a mom of an adorable baby girl Violka.

Anyway, Marketa is awesome. A former HR executive, she is genuinely interested in people. A professional disease? Does she build a secret database of our guests that she will use to kick start her own global HR powerhouse some time in the future? Not sure about that one, but the fact is that she can keep happily chatting with the guests for hours after the tour is over, much to the delight of her husband who's babysitting at home. 

She's also super funny and eager to please, and if it were her way, she would pour everyone a glass of Champagne in every stop we visit. (If you're reading this, Marketa, you can't, okay? We don't have the budget for that. We went through this already.) Anyway, if you're in her group, consider yourself lucky. We know we do consider ourselves lucky having her around. Below are her favorite spots in Prague and her favorite social media accounts. 

MARKETA'S Five Favourite Spots IN PRAGUE

Kantýna

Ahhh, love at first sight!!! I always follow a specific routine: beer and carpaccio (I once cried a little when they ran out of it for the evening, it is THAT good!), followed by steak or pork belly. And then the last beer at the marble counter in the central part of Kantyna, while beeing observed by the baby on one of the paintings that looks exactly like my daughter. I see pride in her eyes :-).

MySák

An amazing place for breakfast, caffeine fix and something sweet in the middle of the day. Or simply the place you start your date in, or take your grandma and win the Grandkid of the Year award (your sidekicks, laskonka, venecek and vetrnik, will help). I love to sit downstairs by the window, have their delicious batch brew or flat white and read and/or do some people-watching.

Místo

Favourite coffee shop in my neighborhood: great specialty coffee, cakes, amazing and super friendly baristas… and a lot of stairs that can be climbed over and over and over again by a pumped 18-month old. (Which means everybody wins!) 

Super Tramp Coffee

Ha, coffee theme going strong :-). Hidden yard close to the Narodní trída. My game plan: batch brew and some pastry with fruit in the spring/summer season, flat white and a pulla with cinnamon in the autumn/winter season. Have a date with yourself or a book and you will be happy camper. That’s a promise!

Mr Hot Dog

Well, I have a very special relationship with this place. This is actually the first place I visited after I gave birth. I did not know how to operate the stroller properly, so we were standing outside (mid-November, freezing, already ahead of the pack for the The Best Mom Ever award). But it was worth it! Delicious sausages from The Real Meat Society, sliders, drinks, beer. Quick, easy and you can burn all the calories in the Letna park right away. P.S. They also do lobster rolls a few times a year. You need them in your life!

Five Favorite Social Media Accounts

Kichenette

Great recipes, photos, general inspiration.

Bjukitchen

Big food and travel inspiration recently pimped-up by super cute baby boy photos.

Joy The Baker 

Sugar, butter, gluten, booze, on repeat. 

Maskrtnica

Give me more gluten and all the sexy loaves of bread!!!!! Seriously, this lady does so much that it looks 24 hour day situation does not apply to her.

Longest Acres Farm

I am a city girl, I love Prague, but Kate's photos bring the six year old "I will have a farm when I will grow up" version of me to the daylight. . .

Ohhh, did I mentioned I follow (read: stalk) all the Taste of Prague family members??? Endless source of great food, travel tips and boomerang loops. Yeah, cool kids!

Secret tip in Prague

Svetozor movie theatre. Just go there and watch a great movie. Pro tip: sit on the the Bok family's double seat (oh yeah, you can adopt a seat there, cool gift!) and sip on G&Ts, craft beer or just an old-school Kofola, the Communist Czech answer to Coca Cola (and everything else).

Prague Foodie Map (2nd edition) out now!

Taste of Prague's Prague food guide is out now!

Oops, we did it again. (Oh, this never gets old. Thank you, Britney.) 

Yes, we’re happy to announce that the second, updated and improved edition of our Prague Foodie Map, our Prague food guide, is finally out. Our curated selection of the best restaurants in Prague, along with best coffee shops, bistros and bars in town.

The first edition sold out in less than six months (the recommendation in the Food & Wine magazine helped). The new, second and improved edition adds more tips and Prague travel advice, mostly based on two things: (1) our own travels, and (2) the most common questions that get asked on both of our Prague food tours.  

We travel quite a bit, and if you’re following us on Instagram (if you don’t, drop everything and do it now), you know it’s mostly for food. And we’ve always wanted to have a reliable, honest guide for each city we travel to, written by a local foodie. With things that only make sense to taste, and nothing more. A guide devoid of cliches and stereotypes. With tips that get you outside of the beaten path. Basically a guide a local would endorse. So we wrote one for Prague.  

The Prague Foodie Map is only 5 Euros, and comes in two flavours: as a printed guide you can buy in some of the coolest places in Prague, and as a digital download. 

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So what’s new in the second edition of our Prague food guide? 

• The number of recommended spots has increased. Prague is growing, and so does the guide.
• The separate map is gone, based on feedback and our own gripes about the first one. Now we have two integrated maps in both sleeves - one of the entire city, one zoomed-in view of the centre. And they are better laid out and show more information.
• The guide’s sections are now colour-coded for quick orientation.
• A glossary of basic Czech terms, with pronunciation.
• A new list of cool, quirky things to do in Prague, on top of the cool places in Prague. 
• A list of the best bites in Prague, and another list for the best bites in Prague, limited to Czech cuisine only. So one Czech, one international.  
• A space for notes! Oh, we needed that one.
• Statistics about Prague and the Czech Republic. We got nerdy in this one, but they do explain a lot.
• The 24-hour itinerary of the first edition was brutal. Basically a sight-seeing death march. We slowed down and spread the pack-it-all-in itinerary into two days. Makes more sense that way. 

And what has stayed from the first edition?

• Curated selection of Prague's best restaurants, coffee shops, bars, farmers markets and shops. In a book and on a map.
• Interviews with local influencers about the things they love and recommend in Prague.
• Fun insider knowledge about Prague's food scene. (And Prague's drinks scene, too.)
• Tips for trips outside of Prague.
• A list of cool spots in Prague.
• And so much more.

So the Prague Foodie Map is out now. Our best food tips for Prague, and so much more. Hope you'll have as much fun using it as we had writing it! 

Prague Food Tips and Recommendations by Prague locals. Ep II: Ondra Hurtik

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If you like coffee in Prague - and you should, it’s awesome - then Ondra Hurtik needs no introduction. The reigning Czech barista champion and the runner up of the 2015 Coffee in Good Spirits competition, Ondra has been a prominent figure on the Prague coffee scene for years. And as one of the faces of the ubiquitous Doubleshot roasters, he can be mostly seen behind the espresso machine of Kavarna Misto or Muj salek kavy, unless he’s training in Doubleshot’s barista training centre in the Karlin district.

What are his favorite places in Prague? Where does he like to go and - most importantly - what is his favorite cafe in Prague? Our summer intern Nicole has interviewed him a while back, as he was training for the World Barista Championships in Dublin.    

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Five Favorite Places in Prague

The Prague Zoo
One of the biggest zoos in the world filled with so many interesting animals and exhibits. The nature and atmosphere are so nice. I really enjoy walking around there.

Prague Riverside (Naplavka)
Great parties at night, with a farmers market on Saturdays. It has gotten fairly busy with a lot more tourists coming to the market, but I still like to go to see my friends at the BrewBar. Overall, the general area around has a lot to offer.

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Pristav 18600
Another riverside but not near the center, so it isn’t as busy. Located in the Karlin district, the area is a bit smaller, but it is full of grass and trees that make for a relaxing atmosphere.

onesip coffee
I am friends with the two owners of this small espresso bar. They do it very well, and have great equipment to do so. It’s probably the café that I visit the most in Prague.

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Divoka Sarka
A great park with a large water reservoir. The nature is very nice and you can get swim there. Taken from a stream, the water is vey cold and refreshing on a hot day.

Five favorite social media accounts

@cuketka
Clearly adored by many. He is probably the first true food blogger in the Czech Republic to do it all independently. Admired for trying to do everything in depth. For example, he elaborates on something as simple as putting salt on meat. He determines when is the best time to apply the salt: before, after, during? He experiments with it all and is always a trendsetter.

@longmilescoffee
An American family who moved to Burundi to produce coffee. Ben and Kristy Carlson could see the great potential for coffee in the area. Their goal has become to show the local farmers how to improve the quality of the coffee and how it is produced. I visited them not too long ago, and they were very welcoming and friendly. At the time, I only got to see the farm and where everything is set up. I would like to go back to see the whole process of the harvest.

@lapalmayeltucan
An experimental coffee farm in Colombia. They are always trying something new and are very innovative. I like that they have an exchange program so it’s possible to go work with them and see first-hand how they produce their coffee. They also just have very nice pictures and consistently document what new methods they are trying.

@bosch
I met this guy through the coffee world, of course. His real name is André Krüger, and he is stationed in Hamburg, Germany. What he is probably most famous for is #boschholdinghands. The project, which he doesn’t do so much of anymore, was simply André finding interesting people and holding hands with them, while someone photographed the moment.

@europeancoffeetrip
(Side note: Onda was trying to pick someone who wasn’t coffee-related for the last one of his tips. He just couldn’t do it.)
Two passionate coffee fans. Run by Ales Pospisil and Radek Nozicka, the two travel around Europe, mapping the coffee scenes in different cities. They are interesting and obviously care a lot about what they do. They post great pictures, updates on coffee events, and have their own video blog for their followers.

Prague Local Favorites: Sansho

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If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, we don’t have to explain who Paul Day is. We don’t have to explain that he came here from London, single-handedly put the heritage breed of the Prestik Pig back on the map, and together with his partner Misa, he is the driving force behind the organic butchers of The Real Meat Society. We also don’t have to explain that Prague has a sizable Vietnamese community and that we have, as a result, great access to Asian ingredients from the Vietnamese Sapa market. So what is there to explain? Sansho is, with a big degree of simplification, what Momofuku is to New York City: a place where local foodies and chefs go for great flavors served in a casual, unfussy atmosphere and environment. 

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How much do local foodies love this place? When we wrote our piece about places in Prague where foodies love to eat, none of the food critics and bloggers we reached out to chose Sansho because it was "so obvious that somebody else would surely mention it", so in the end we had to put it in ourselves. Sansho was truly a revelation when it opened some four years ago. Communal tables in a society that likes privacy. Fresh interiors devoid of virtually any decorations. Asian dishes going beyond the cheap Chinese food lunches. Made by a British chef. A strong focus on whole animal butchery and ethical eating. Paul has come, looked around and set some trends that many have tried (and most of them failed) to follow ever since. There are a few places in Prague that could compete with the best in the bigger cities like London or New York City and stand the test with flying colors, but Sansho is definitely one of them.

The smartest Prague food tours. Cool rental apartment. Awesome pocket wifi device. We’ll turn your Prague trip up to eleven.

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Now, we love Sansho for two things mostly. First, there’s the food. We could honestly lick every plate. When you marry the best Czech protein with some authentic Asian flavors from the Sapa market and add awesome cooking skills, you clearly have a winner on your hands. Second, there’s Paul Day. His enthusiasm and drive are contagious. He dances around Sansho and Maso a kobliha next door, welcoming the novices, meeting the regulars, making fun of most of them (you don’t want to see the texts he’s been sending us) and creating a community of fellow foodies who will come back again and again. And if you go there too, you might be a part of it sooner than you’d think.

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When to come: Sansho serves a-la-carte lunches until 3pm, then shuts down and reopens for set menu dinners at 6pm. We love getting there for a late lunch. The place is emptier and you have more time to chat with the staff!
Where to sit: The long table in the left corner when you enter the restaurant. The location is strategic: you can see who’s coming in, who’s cooking in the kitchen, and anything in between.
What to order: Jan likes to argue that Sansho’s pork belly with hoisin sauce and watermelon is the best dish in Prague. Period. The soft shell crab sliders are a classic, too. The beef rendang is fantastic. We could go on.
Runners up: The smoked trout salad is one of Zuzi’s favorites, just like the salmon sashimi with sesame oil and the gyoza dumplings with shrimp and salmon roe. But it’s all good, really.
What to beware of: Reservations are quite necessary for evenings, but you can usually just walk in for lunch. Also, Sansho is not for those who are looking for “picturesque” settings, silverware and bows from staff with white gloves.
Instagram-worthiness: Super high if you persuade Paul Day to take a selfie with you. You’ll join a long list of celebrities who have done the same.

Prague Local Favorites: Maso a kobliha

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Meat and donut. What a name for what is arguably the best bistro in town. And a very apt name for that. Maso a kobliha is, at its heart, a butcher shop of The Real Meat Society, that just takes things a bit further by processing the meat into some fantastic dishes and by selling, without a shadow of a doubt, the best donut in Prague. Can you argue with that? Of course you can’t. 

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The smartest Prague food tours. Cool rental apartment. Awesome pocket wifi device. We’ll turn your Prague trip up to eleven.

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Paul Day, the famous owner of Sansho next door, and his partner Misa are clearly perfectionists, so the place has been in the works for a long time. “We’ll open in about three weeks.” That’s what we kept hearing from Paul and Misa… for months. But the wait was absolutely worth it. Let’s start with the interiors. They are eclectic, dominated at the front by the meat counter and the bar with the donuts on display. The long communal tables, a signature feature of Sansho, stayed - one in the front room, one in the back. What was added was Paul’s pride, the old professional fridge turned into a keg-o-mator that serves some kickin’ Czech craft beers to wash all the food down. 

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And the food is delicious. Think English pub food at its best: scotch eggs, corned beef hash, blood cake and so on. Every food served is a guilty pleasure you will be resisting to have, and failing at it, for months to come. But the Caesar salad and the vegetable dishes are beautiful, too. Just like with the meat, Paul and Misa are very particulate about vegetables and now get them from the same farm as the pork, all grown from heirloom seeds. The atmosphere in the evenings is very friendly and fun, with Northern Soul records played on the Czech Pro-Ject turntable, and with people just devouring their food and having fun - we’re all in it together and no-one will ever tell anyone outside about all the food you just had. And if you haven’t had enough, you can buy the meat, the donut, or the bread baked in house by Julka, a.k.a. Maskrtnica, one of the most famous bakers and baking bloggers in town, home for later use. But why? You’d miss all the fun.

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When to come: We like coming in between the meals for the shorter menu. The atmosphere is lazy and you can spend quite a bit of time devouring the food and talking to the staff. We also love coming over for Saturday lunches with our friends.
Where to sit: Just like in Sansho, the long table in the left corner when you enter the restaurant. Just like in Sansho, you see everything: who’s coming in, who’s going out, who’s buying the meat or the donuts. You will know it all. But their outdoor seating in the back is very nice in the summer, too! 
What to order: The scotch eggs and the pork skins with avocado dip are a guilty pleasure you can a lot of without thinking about it. Which can be very dangerous. (All of there are our Prague food hall of famers, anyway.) The fried cheese is a revamped Czech classic. And the donut. Of course. One bite will convert you into a vanilla custard donut lover.
Runners up: We really like their vegetables, too: the burnt broccoli or the Caesar salad are both great. Whatever you order, wash it down with craft beers by Matuska or Two Tales or another brewery.
What to beware of: This is not for the faint-hearted. If you don't like meat... or stuffed animals, you may look elsewhere. But you'd miss out.
Instagram-worthiness: Very high. A picture of an open donut, bursting with custard, will make your followers salivate all over their phone displays.

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Prague Local Favorites: Kurator

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One has to wonder how can you put so much soul into a space that many diminutive espresso bar owners would call "too small". But Martina and Jan, the owners of the Kurator shop near the National Theatre and the Bethlehem Square, clearly can. The winner of the 2014 Czech Grand Design “Shop of the Year” award, Kurator does exactly what its title suggests: it looks at young, promising or otherwise interesting designers (mostly Czech but also some from abroad), and sets up a (roughly) two-month curated selection of their work. And you can buy it all! Yay! The exhibitions are always wrapped around a theme, be it proms (during the Czech senior prom season), ethical manufacturers, flowers or anything else. 

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We will not lie to you: we love Kurator because of its owners. We walked past the shop a few months after it opened as it hosted an opening party for the second exhibition. Martina and Jan invited us inside and we were immediately hooked. Martina, one half of the now-defunct Belka fashion brand (Zuzi absolutely loved it) is the driving force behind Kurator, while Jan is the calmer, softer-spoken one of the duo. We love just to stop by randomly. Martina will show you everything they have, put it on you and tell you the story of the creator, why it suits you and - more importantly - when it doesn’t, and sometimes even feed you in the process. And you’ll hear the latest news from the fashion and arts scene, a segment she is very well connected to.

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People ask us all the time what they should buy in Prague. For us, the answer easy. Young local designers produce fantastic stuff without the brand-name premium. And you’ll buy something unique, made ethically and from good materials. Kurator sells fashion, accessories, jewelry and even some stationery to boot, and we (and by we we mean Zuzi) could buy just about anything they have. With the purchase, Martina, Jan and their girls will recommend places to follow in your shopping journey. Heck, they even wrote an entire Prague shopping guide for us a few months ago, which we still recommend to all our guests… and locals alike. 

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When to come: We love coming over around the lunch time when Martina is eating. We love doing that to her. (Sorry!) But anyway, any time is good!
Where to sit: Sit? You must be joking. The whole shop has about 100 square feet.
What to buy: We would ask about anything by Czech fashion designers. Martina picks pieces by up-and-coming and promising young designers she can stand behind.
Runners up: Definitely the jewelry: both classic and edgy pieces by young Czech designers.
What to beware of: If you just want to have an incognito browse through the racks of clothing, or if you don't like to interact with the staff, this place is probably not for you.
Instagram-worthiness: Very high. The pieces Martina has in store are beautiful, and she will let you try them all, so perfect for pimping up your selfies!

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Prague Local Favorites: Metamorposis

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Sure, a flower shop does not relate to food or shopping or culture, but if we were to talk about the shops we love in Prague, Metamorphosis would be near the top of the list. Just walk inside and you’ll understand why: the eclectic, run down room is dominated by a large table full of various flowers, the basic ingredients for the florists’ creations. Just tell them how much you want to spend, and what color and flowers do you prefer, and watch as the wooden floor covers in twigs and leafs when the florists prepare the bouquets “a la minute” for you. Romantic and beautiful? You bet. Also, we are always surprised how much beauty and flowers we get for whatever we say our budget it. The bouquet seems worth more than it is.

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Since our first purchase, we have become regulars at Metamorphosis. Zuzi goes there to buy flowers for our home on a weekly basis. Jan goes there when he want to surprise Zuzi with a small gift. And we both go there when we need to buy flowers for our friends or family. And they complete every order with flying colors: the florists will make anything from a modest, cute bouquet for CZK 200 to a wall of flower power worth thousands. Metamorphosis is hardly a secret, and we usually have to stand in a small line. But the wait is totally worth it. Just venture into the shop one day and you’ll understand what we talk about. Just don’t come complaining to us when you become hooked like we are. You brought it on yourself! We warned you, okay?

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When to come: Just before the noon is the safest time: they’ve already delivered their daily batch of flowers, and they still have a wide selection of flowers.

What to buy: They don’t really have a menu in Metamorphosis. You just walk in and say what you want, what’s your budget, and perhaps a style: “I want a flower that will cost some 300 Czech crowns, is predominantly yellow, oh, and hate roses.” And then you just watch. The flower will unfold as the florist will prepare it.

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What to beware of: Sometimes there can be long lines, but let’s be honest here: long lines in flower shops are bearable. Also, coming just before the closing time might get you a flower you would not have picked yourself a few hours before, because they can run out of some flowers towards the end of the day.

Instagram-worthiness: Dynamite. A beautiful flower shop. Full of flowers. What more would you want exactly?